Antipasti, the Italian tradition dating back to the 16th century of a selection of appetizers to awaken the senses and the perfect way to start a meal—especially one focused on Italian cuisine. And while a board filled with meats, cheeses, and olives is popular, some go beyond the obvious and stock their tables with a variety of salads, marinated vegetables, tarts, and other appetizers.
Modena, an Italian restaurant in Washington, D.C., has made a name for itself since opening in Fall 2019. Some of the chatter is due to its beautiful cherry wood antipasti cart from Sambonet that they imported from Italy and stocked with custom china. Diners select from a rotating menu of antipasti by Executive Chef John Melfi, who fills the cart with traditional antipasti as well as modern spins on the classics.
“I love that antipasti are like a blank canvas and an open door because we can do anything we want and keep it fun and exciting, but also have some classics in there,” says Chef Melfi, whose grew up cooking alongside his Italian parents and grandparents.
Chef Melfi and his antipasti menu are guided by what’s in season and available at the nearby Dupont Circle Farmers Market. For example, during winter, dishes on the cart have included a sheep’s milk ricotta tart with spinach, lemon, and pecorino cheese; roasted candy-striped beets with candied walnuts, gorgonzola dolce, and aged sherry vinaigrette; and a blood orange and shaved fennel salad with fresh herbs and a Meyer lemon vinaigrette. Along with the classic sliced Prosciutto di Parma (which Chef Melfi drizzles with aged balsamic vinegar from Modena and tops with pane fritto), he also puts together his own house blend of olives, which are marinated with orange peel, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, pink peppercorn, coriander, star anise, all spice, sherry vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil.
“I especially love the marinated olives because we select our favorite olives and make own mix and flavor it the way we like,” says Chef Melfi. “Most of the time, an olive mix doesn’t have enough flavor and you don’t necessarily love all the olives in the mix, but here it’s all of our favorites and full of flavor.”
While you may not have a fancy cart at home, making your own antipasti platter is a fun and easy way to serve delectable appetizers using Italian ingredients. All you need to do is find the perfect variety of salumi, salads, other vegetables, (fresh, preserved, or roasted) and cheese. The key here is balance, making sure to include a mixture that hits all the right tasting notes—sweet, salty, bitter, and sour—as well as a variety of textures. Don’t be afraid to drizzle honey on cheese, vinegar on fruit, and good olive oil on everything! Think about contrasting flavors and textures as well as what’s in season: what grows together, goes together is a good mantra.
To build your antipasti platter, first select a variety of meats and cheeses with different textures and flavors: perhaps some creamy taleggio cheese, tangy mozzarella di bufala, and nutty, hard Pecorino Romano alongside nutty Prosciutto di Parma, dry, fennel-scented Finocchiona, and creamy Mortadella studded with pistachios. Accent these with fresh seasonal salads and marinated and/or grilled vegetables like artichoke hearts and piquillo peppers. And it’s always a good idea to toss some olives on the platter. Have plenty of olive oil for drizzling and crostini or other bread and crackers on hand. And don’t be afraid to experiment a little—antipasti are a great way to use what you’ve already got in the pantry.