Setting the Table With Max Mara's Giorgio Guidotti

This article originally appeared in the February 2020 print edition of La Cucina Italiana.

In the fashion world, everyone knows Giorgio Guidotti. No, he’s not a designer who wows the glitterati with coveted catwalk collections each autumn and spring. Instead, the sophisticated and charming Emilia-Romagna native is the head of communications for the Max Mara group, a fashion house established in 1951 that today is one of the most important names in Italian-made goods. Today, eight additional brands currently fall within its realm. 

For work, Guidotti often finds himself planning grand-scale events across the globe, immersing the attendees in brand experiences conveyed through food. Ironically enough, he’s never cooked a day in his life — in fact, he’s very open about the fact that he can’t even make a sandwich. And yet anyone who's ever been his guest will recount an experience of an exquisitely cooked meal complemented by impeccably arranged table settings. He particularly loves entertaining in his New York home, and an invitation to his holiday party is one of the most coveted by local movers and shakers. 

Be it a casual lunch, an intimate dinner, or an elegant aperitivo, Guidotti crafts the menu with the head chef, dedicating meticulous care to even the smallest details, starting with the colors. However, not just the hues of the tablecloth, plates, and stemware — for each dish he chooses particular shades in a harmonious cornucopia that tempts the eyes as well as the palate. Here, we speak to him about what it means to be the host with the most.

What kind of a host are you? When hosting guests, can you enjoy the moment? Or are you always rushing around?

Well, I hate being alone as much as I love having guests and being someone’s guest. Before sending out the invitations, I always think about how to best group my friends. I like the idea
that at my home, my guests can meet new people and make interesting, unexpected acquaintances. It’s something I learned from the great masters of the art of entertaining whom I had the good fortune to meet in New York. Just think of Truman Capote’s swans [wealthy, powerful women from New York in the ’60s and ’70s, including C. Z. Guest and her daughter Cornelia, Guidotti’s personal friends] or Holly Solomon’s unforgettable style. But it was Deeda Blair who taught me the importance of recipes that are captivating even in their color. Food needs to be aesthetically appealing as well as delicious.

Is that why you like to include caviar pizza on the menu?

I stole the idea from an American friend of mine who surprised us all with it at lunch one day. Then at a Max Mara event in Berlin, I put it on the menu along with a vegetarian version topped with black lentils. I find the effect of a total black pizza intriguing, and they both tasted delicious.

You also gave the table a touch of refinement by playing with black elements...

Yes, the combination of black and white is quintessentially chic. Tablecloth and napkins, all with black embroidery on a spotless white background. I found them in New York, but they’re a replica of a Viennese set from the ’20s. As for the dishes, they’re Richard Ginori originals from the ’60s, from the Eclettica line. I bought them at an antique shop in Reggio Emilia where I also found the Venetian glassware. The cutlery, on the other hand, is Sambonet, designed by Gio Ponti. I wanted to convey a sense of italianità through the table settings.

And the other dishes? Why borscht?

I wanted a course with bold colors, which I concluded with blueberries, a dessert that’s simple but always a hit. As for the lobster salad, which I’m crazy about, it was important to me that it be served in the shell as it adds a distinct shape.

What do you pay the most attention to when you have company?

The drinks, which need to be of excellent quality, and, most importantly, in abundant quantities! Be it wine, Champagne or vodka, my friends know that their glasses will never go empty at my place because I find it nice to see them a little tipsy and cheerful — even though at the end of the night there might be a few minor incidents. Once two ladies left wearing each other’s furs without realizing it. The funny thing was, the coats were two completely different styles.

Photos by Giacomo Bretzel