The chance to rub elbows with celebrities has always been a big attraction for New York restaurants since locals are known to let them eat their meals undisturbed. But even if some of these eateries are places to see and be seen, others are more understated – acting as safe havens for exclusive patrons, where celebs can feel free to share a meal with their families, celebrate an important occasion or close a multi-million dollar deal in a more private atmosphere.
A perfect example is Sistina, the Upper East Side gem that has catered to the rich and famous for almost 40 years now. Previously located on Second Avenue, the venue moved five years ago to a stunning landmark townhouse on 81st Street between Madison and Fifth avenue – a perfect backdrop for the restaurant’s extensive art collection featuring masterpieces from Matisse and Frank Stella to Sandro Chia. Sistina also has an award-winning wine collection – the second most important in the world – of 85,000 wine bottles (with 15,000 kept in the vast cellar in the basement of the restaurant. And last but (definitely) not least, Sistina offers a menu of high-level Italian cuisine made with fresh seasonal ingredients – tailored to the likes of the locale’s exclusive loyal clientele.
Behind the magic of this iconic establishment sits restaurateur and executive chef Giuseppe Bruno, who is also the owner of Caravaggio, another Upper East Side Italian eatery. He has served an impressive list of illustrious guests – from politicians like Bill Clinton and Michelle Obama, to entertainment industry icons like Robert de Niro, Paul McCartney, George and Amal Clooney and Martin Scorsese. Bruno has hosted private meetings for top personalities in the financial world, catered events attended by Oprah, and gave gardening advice to the Rockefellers. It’s a go-to spot for heads of states, but it was also a favorite spot for the infamous gangster John Gotti.
If only Sistina’s walls could talk, they could tell countless stories of the history of the city. Luckily, Chef Bruno was kind enough to share some highlights of his incredible life as a top New York restaurateur and some of the secrets to his long-lasting success.
You cooked for many politicians and heads of state. Can you share one experience that stayed with you?
The President of the British University William & Mary, who was a regular customer, organized a birthday dinner for Margaret Thatcher in the restaurant. She was lovely and I remember that she went back to the kitchen to say hello to everyone.
Sandro Chia painting at Sistina
Sistina is a favorite among the Wall Street crowd, even if it is located in the UES, far from Midtown and the Financial District. Why is this?
The big shots prefer to have privacy rather than the Midtown scene. During the period of Wall Street’s mergers and acquisitions frenzy in the 2000s, they had meetings every day for lunch in our restaurant. They would come with their chauffeurs and they treated the place like their own private dining room. They wouldn’t talk to my staff and dealt directly with me, so I have developed friendships with many of them, like John Mack, the CEO of Morgan Stanley and Blackrock’s Larry Fink, who I send dinner deliveries to even today.
You also had the infamous John Gotti among your regulars. Any anecdotes to share?
Yes, he came two to three times a week. He was a sharp dresser and always drank Petrus. When he went to party at the club Maxime, the manager (who was Italian), would call me and say, “The father is here,” without using his name. Then he would ask me to send in food for him, as he preferred Italian cuisine to French. When The NY Times Magazine published a cover story on Gotti, saying that Sistina was his favorite restaurant, we lost 60% of our clientele – we were desperate. Some suggested we serve him bad food, but the cook, who was my brother at the time, refused of course. He was terrified. Gotti generally kept to himself and didn’t bother anybody, but one day one of the waiters poured his water the wrong way – a mistake that brings bad luck according to mobster superstitions. Gotti grabbed his arm and yelled, “You motherf*cker! Giuseppe, get this piece of sh*t away from me!” I sent the waiter home and he never came back. Even when Gotti went to jail, one of his “soldiers” would pick up his favorite artichokes dishes for visitations.
Mr. Giuseppe Bruno
What are the reasons for the loyalty of your exclusive clientele and your long-lasting success?
Robert de Niro tells me it’s because they trust me – they know they won’t be in the paper the morning after. The reason I succeeded is because I love what I do. I know that I can cook, and I would never serve something that I wouldn’t eat myself. I buy only the best produce – sometimes paying four times the price – and whatever is not good goes straight to the garbage. I am also very attentive to my clients’ dietary needs, and I have even studied nutrition to help design a healthier menu. They know that I will adapt the dishes for them if they have allergies, health issues or follow religious dietary laws. My cuisine is also perfect for people that are health-conscious, kosher, or vegetarian. I come from the South of Italy, where we don’t have a lot of meat, but many vegetables, fish and herbs instead. We were poor anyway. If we had a chicken, we sold it. We had a diet rich in ingredients like chicory, broccoli, spinach, tomatoes, lentils and beans.
Paul McCartney, who is vegan, is a regular. What is his favorite dish?
Pasta with truffles.
Pasta Trapanese
You are one of the first to believe in the farm-to-table concept. Can you tell us about it?
I go to farmer’s markets and local farmers every day – and like many chefs in Italy, I cook with whatever I find. I have this mentality because I am a farmer. I own a farm with my family in 40-50 acres of land inland of the Amalfi coast, where we make olive oil among other things. For me, cooking is easy because I used to produce all these things. I know how to plant, how to harvest – sometimes I even advise the local farmers. About 15 years ago, when Mrs. Rockefeller invited me to visit their farm in their Westchester Estate, I noticed they were planting tomatoes too close to each other not facing the sun. I gave her suggestions on how to better plant them so that the sun would not shine through the lines.
Can you tell us about your Dr. Oz-approved pasta dish?
Before I got married, I dated a Sicilian girl who introduced me to pesto trapanese, made with ground pistachios. At first, I was skeptical. Then I decided to make my own version with several ground and toasted nuts, like pine nuts, almonds, pistachios, and walnuts, in a spicy tomato sauce with a hint of mint. The dish made the front page of the NY Times. When Dr Oz tried it, he suggested that I don’t toast the nuts before grinding them, because they lose 25% of their nutrients, so I followed his advice. He loves the dish and showcased it several times on his show.
What are some other popular menu items?
In addition to our pasta, people love my warm seafood salad. I use any fish the client wants, like mussels, clams, calamari, shrimp, or scallops and I cook them in a steamer. I then dress the dish with a light vinaigrette of lemon and oil. I use the zest of lemons from the Amalfi coast to give it a subtle flavor. I also make a great wild branzino baked in salt and a popular octopus pasta.
Branzino Sotto Sale
You must have great people skills to build such a close relationships with your clients.
I actually named my second restaurant Caravaggio, like the artist, because I learned about his impossibly crazy behavior. As a kid, he was painting in the streets of Rome and the Pope was passing by. When he gently touched his head, Caravaggio pulled out a knife on him. I grew up in the streets of Naples: I was like him, with a similar temper, but now I am calmer. Still though, if you are arrogant, I won’t serve you. If you’re nice, I’ll go out of my way for you. My clients understand who I am – they are some of the most brilliant people in the world. To anyone, I suggest picking 6 or 7 restaurants you like and patronize those. When you are a regular, you become a friend – they’ll know what you like and you’ll be treated like family.
Who is the person in the industry that you most admire?
Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque. An amazing chef, maître d and an Italian at the head of the most prestigious French restaurant in the world. Even Daniel Boulud learned from him. Some restaurateurs can be great but are not constant through time – they get a taste of success and become distracted by it. If you have talent, you have to work at it every day. I might have not been a great dad, or a great husband, but I know I gave everything to my work.
Sistina and Caravaggio are currently offering outdoor dining and deliveries.
