The versatility of Italian cheeses is embraced and enjoyed in every region of Italy, from a few hunks with an aperitivo to the starring ingredient in a dessert. Whether baked, fried, grated, sliced, or dolloped, cheese is a quintessential element in countless dishes, as well as on delectable taglieri, wooden boards typically brimming with salumi and formaggi.
Here in the US, as many of us have been focused on stocking our pantries with non-perishable foods these past few months, formaggio has fallen off the radar for some. But with the weather warming up in these final weeks of spring and early summer, now is the perfect time to incorporate Italian cheeses into your life, from refreshing salads to colorful cheese plates garnished with seasonal fruits. I’ve chosen four of my favorites that represent a mix of milks, styles, and regions; I hope you’re inspired to seek them out and explore others that are new to you!
Casatica di Bufala
Casatica di Bufala
This stunner from Quattro Portoni in Lombardy, a region with strong cheesemaking traditions (Gorgonzola, Taleggio, and Grana Padano, among others), is a relatively new cheese made with 100% buffalo milk. Brothers Bruno and Alfio Gritti broke convention when they began making aged cheeses, not just mozzarella, with the milk from their water buffalo in 2006. One of over 25 varieties they make today, Casatica is decadent and creamy, with a custard-like texture beneath the delicate white rind. Pair it with a glass of Franciacorta or Prosecco—the bubbles are a perfect match with this rich brie-style beauty.
Available in NYC at Eataly Downtown, 4 World Trade Center
La Tur
La Tur
The first time I included La Tur in one of my cheese classes, a student told me that tasting it was a lifechanging experience. Made from a blend of cow’s, goat’s, and sheep’s milk, this dainty round from Caseificio dell’Alta Langa in Piedmont has a soft, wrinkled rind and a light, fluffy texture that becomes more cake-like towards the center. You’ll taste some nuttiness and a rich butteriness from the sheep’s milk, which has almost double the fat of cow’s milk, a bit of tang from the goat’s milk, and an exquisite creaminess from the cow’s milk. A truly luscious cheese that is a gorgeous addition to any cheese plate.
Available online at Murray’s and at selected Whole Foods locations
Pecorino Toscano
Pecorino Toscano Fresco
Pecorino refers to any cheese made from sheep’s milk (pecora means “sheep” in Italian), and there are hundreds of varieties in Italy. As the name suggests, Pecorino Toscano hails from Tuscany, and its PDO status limits its production to that region and a small number of neighboring territories in Umbria and Lazio. The younger version, Pecorino Toscano Fresco (fresh), matures for a minimum of 20 days and is sweet, mild, and buttery with a semi-soft texture—quite different from Pecorino Romano. Try it with fresh cantaloupe and pineapples, shaved over pappa al pomodoro (not traditional, but still tasty), or in a salad with fava beans, a favorite Tuscan pairing in the spring.
Available online at Di Bruno Bros. and at selected Whole Foods locations
Blu 61
Blu 61
Created by cheesemaker Antonio Carpenedo in 2011 to celebrate 50 years of marriage to his wife Giuseppina, Blu 61 is a cow’s milk blue cheese aged in sweet Raboso Passito wine and cranberries. Its texture is voluptuously creamy, and the bold flavor typical of many blue cheeses is balanced by the fruity sweetness of the wine. The striking wheel topped with berries resembles a cake, and in fact Blu 61 is a heavenly dessert cheese.
Available in NYC at Di Palo’s, 200 Grand Street