Earlier this week I woke up to a text asking how this year’s picnic would address safety guidelines. It took me about 15 minutes to realize that my friend Alessandra was referring to the annual outdoors gathering she and I host on Memorial Day. With Covid as a constant companion, an array of joyously shared platters from many kitchens presents a challenge. But we still want to share and, after 2 months of our own cooking, we yearn for flavors from different stoves.
The last 2 months have been a jumble of hours, days, weeks stripped of the habits and expectations that give shape to our daily lives. It’s been hard to keep track of the time of day, let alone the change of season. But nature doesn’t stop and neither do her gifts. Because my personal and professional lives intertwine in the kitchen, my clock turns with what’s on local farm stands. As spring tidies the place for summer, vegetables are going from a tenuous and light green to a dense and brilliant one. Herbs are flowering. Garlic and onions are close to crossing the line from adolescence into adulthood. The first sun kissed warm colors of summer are showing on trellises. Fresh cheeses are more floral than ever.
As I gingerly stroll through my favorite farmers’ market, masks and gloves dutifully in place, greeting my farmers, students and friends from afar, inspiration strikes me for the picnic I almost forgot. I will re-shape my preferred contribution - torte di verdura~savory vegetable tarts - into tortine this year, small tarts wrapped for individual consumption. No hands will touch them other than my well washed, gloved ones and the ones of the person who eats them.
There are 2 main styles of savory tarts, dairy based and vegetables forward. Time of year, type of vegetable, whim and audience determine which one I make. For the dairy I prefer a butter crust, while vegetables only tarts are built with an olive oil/water dough. Since I don’t have a favorite, I will be bringing both kinds to Monday’s picnic. Here they are.
Lemon and Marjoram Scented Baskets with Asparagus, Shelling Peas and Ricotta by Viola Buitoni
for 6 4” round molds
Ingredients:
For the crust
8 ounces sifted AP flour
1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces diced and chilled butter
2 to 3 tablespoons iced water
For the filling
1 pound unshelled peas
18 asparagus spears
1 spring onion
4 sprigs marjoram
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
6 ounces ricotta
2 eggs
nutmeg to taste
salt to taste
pepper to taste
Method:
To make the crust, place the flour, salt and butter in the food processor. Pulse and add water in half tablespoon increments, starting with 1.5 tablespoons. When the mixture is all crumbs. pick up a small amount and press it between your thumb and index finger. It should stick together and feel slightly buttery but neither greasy nor sticky. If it doesn’t form and looks dry you will need a little more water, otherwise it is ready.
Tilt the crumbs onto a piece of plastic and quickly press together. Wrap well and run your thumbs from top to bottom to eliminate air pockets. Tighten the plastic and refrigerate to harden and set. Remember that this crust is best when handled the bare minimum. Let it harden completely or it will be really finicky to roll out.
To make the filling, shell the peas, the yield should be about 1 cup. Snap the fibrous ends of the asparagus. Cut 2” off the tips and set aside. Slice the stems in 1/4” wheels. Cut the onion in half stem to root and slice in paper thin half moons. Strip the leaves of the marjoram and mince.
Place the olive oil, onions, cut asparagus stems (NOT the tips), half the marjoram and half the zest in a sauté pan with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Turn the heat on to medium. Sauté until the onion is soft, everything is shiny and the fragrance of marjoram and zest wafts to your nose. Add 1/2 cup of warm water, turn the heat to medium low, cover and braise for 15 to 20 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure it isn’t sticking. Add a little warm water if needed. Adjust salt and pepper to taste and let cool completely in the refrigerator.
Scoop out half a cup of the vegetable medley and toss in a large bowl. Run the rest through the food processor until pureed and spatula it into the bowl. Add the ricotta and 1 egg. Grate enough nutmeg that its fragrance meets your nose where you are standing. Add the remaining marjoram and zest. Stir until homogeneously combined. Adjust salt and pepper and refrigerate while you prepare the tart shells.
Heat the oven to 375 ̊F.
You must work quite quickly now, as the crust is hard to tame if it gets warm. Roll the dough to 1/4” Cut 6 rounds of 6” in radius. Lift one round and drop it in a mould. Press down lightly to line the mould. Repeat until all 6 shells are ready.
Spoon equal amounts of filling into the 6 baskets. Fold in the overhanging dough and crimp attractively. Garnish each basket with 3 asparagus tips. Refrigerate for 15 minutes to let the dough set. Cover loosely with foil and bake for 15 minutes.
Beat the remaining egg with 2 tablespoons of water. Generously brush the dough around each basket with the egg wash then slide into the top half of the oven for another 10 minutes, until they are tanned and shiny. Touch the filling to be sure they are done, it should be soft, with a bit of bounce but no jiggling.
When packing individually for your picnic, use a paper bag so they do not get soggy. Serve warm to room temperature.
Flowering Broccolini and Green Garlic Turtles with Olives, Pine Nuts and Raisins by Viola Buitoni
for 6 4x3” turtles
Ingredients:
For the crust
12 ounces AP flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
6 tablespoons grated pecorino
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup body temperature water
For the filling
1 pound flowering broccolini
2 green garlic stalks (or 1 garlic clove)
2 tablespoons black olives
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons raisins
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup grated pecorino
salt and pepper to taste
1 egg
Method:
To make the crust combine the flour, baking powder, pecorino and salt in a bowl. Add the oil and start working the mass with the tips of your fingers. Add in the water by the tablespoon, a bit at a time until the dough is well hydrated and soft but not sticky. Knead briefly without pushing and pulling, we are not looking for a well-developed gluten, rather a slightly flaky and crunchy dough. The surface of the dough will appear a little lumpy and wavy. Wrap well and leave to rest while you prepare the filling.
Snap off the stringy ends of the broccoli stems, wash well and cook in 1 quart of softly boiling water seasoned with half a tablespoon of salt until it is quite soft and has turned a bright green with undertones of yellow. It will take about 15 minutes. Fish out of the water with tongs, drain, squeeze and chop roughly. Conserve the cooking water.
Mince the garlic into a paste. Rinse the olives well. Place the raisins in warm water to plump.
Pour half the olive oil into a skillet with the garlic and lemon zest. Turn the heat to low and watch the garlic soften and melt into the increasingly hot oil. When it is translucent and fragrant, add the broccoli. Raise the heat to hight and stir to coat in deliciousness. Add 1/2 cup of the conserved water, turn the flame to medium low and cover. Let cook for another 10 to 12 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure it isn’t sticking and adding a little liquid if needed.
By the time they’re ready, the greens should have no visible moisture. If they seem too watery, cook them uncovered over high heat until the excess moisture is gone. Add olives and pine nuts. Drain and squeeze the raisins and toss them in. Adjust salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Place in the refrigerator to cool completely.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and drizzle with the remaining oil and pecorino.
Roll the crust to 1/8” and cut 12 ovals 4” down and 3” across. Line 6 of them in a baking sheet and drizzle with half the olive oil and half the pecorino.
Heat the oven to 375 ̊F.
Divide the filling in 6 equal mounds. Pick up a mound of filling, press it together well with your hand and place it in the middle of 1 of the ovals in the baking sheet leaving about 1” all-around. Repeat until all the ovals on the tray are ready.
Use the last 6 ovals to cover the filled ones. Press the edges together well to seal completely. Crimp the top and bottom and side end points of each oval by pinching it between your thumb and index finger and making a pointy tip. Do the same in the mid points in between the first four crimps.
Each packet should have little tips around making it look like a little turtle. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes in the lower half of the oven.
Beat 1 egg with 1/4 cup water. Generously brush the top and sides of each turtle with the egg wash and slide into the top half of the oven for another 5 to 8 minutes, until they are tanned and shiny.
When packing individually for your picnic, use a paper bag so they do not get soggy. Serve warm to room temperature.