The origins of the cotoletta alla Milanese, or Milanese cutlet, are still not entirely clear. There's an ongoing debate of what came first: this staple Lombard cuisine came or Wiener Schnitzel. However, the dish is believed to have originated in France. A recipe from 1735 and the 1749 book The Science of a Maître d’Hôtel both mention breaded and fried cutlets. When they reached Milan, they were called “Cutlets of the French Revolution.” (From Milan, it likely went to Austria.)
The main difference is that the meat for the Milanese cutlet is marinated in melted butter, salt, pepper, cloves, and herbs before being passed in flour, egg, and bread crumbs. Regardless, the Milanese cotoletta is a meat dish that is anything but overlooked on the menus of the best restaurants in Lombardy (and beyond).
Yet despite the numerous variations, it has one and only one identity. The real Milanese cutlet consists of a bone-in veal loin just over half an inch thick – all others are imitations. And before breading it, you should make small incisions in the meat with a sharp knife, slicing along the connective edge to make sure it doesn’t curl over while cooking. Also, to be truly “Milanese”, it must it should be cooked in clarified butter. It's a must-eat when in Milan and can be found all around town at trattorias specializing in traditional Milanese cuisine.
Speaking of imitations, when you're in town, you might notice some exceptional thin, boneless versions. These are known as the orecchio d'elefante, or elephant ear style, cutlets. They're made with a boneless cut of meat that's pounded super thin – this meat cut is also cheaper and so these cutlets, therefore, cost less – if you see a Milanese cutlet for under 20 euro, it's most likely the elephant ear version. However, there's nothing “wrong' with them, per se – many are delicious. They're just not considered the “true” cotoletta – but that doesn't mean they're unenjoyable.
Check out the above slideshow for tips and tricks for making the perfect Milanese cutlet.