A Day in Franciacorta

With 19 municipalities and just under 12 square miles of vineyards, Franciacorta is Italy’s most prominent production region for classic method sparkling wines. Located in the province of Brescia, Franciacorta is just a one-hour drive from Milan. Lake Iseo, where the American artist Christo temporarily installed the Floating Piers in 2016, borders the Lombardy region to the north. The bright-yellow, fabric-covered walkways created a path for visitors to reach Monte Isola, Italy’s largest lake island, and the islet of San Paolo on foot. Though the Floating Piers have come and gone, Franciacorta remains a prime contemporary art destination.

Take a stroll along the lake then catch a ferry to Monte Isola and explore the charming hamlets and villages by bike, or visit the nature reserve in Sebino, a wetland of peat bogs on the lake’s southern tip. Have lunch at Trattoria del Muliner in Clusane, which offers excellent lake-to-dish fare, including an exquisite preparation of tinca al forno. This local specialty calls for filling, then baking, a tench fish with a cheese- and bread-based filling ⁠— a perfect pairing for Franciacorta Extra Brut.

After lunch, head to Erbusco, the capital of the sparkling wine district, home to the Franciacorta Consortium as well as some of the region’s most esteemed wineries, such as Ca' del Bosco. Founded by Maurizio Zanella in the 1970s, Ca' del Bosco is a must-visit ⁠— just as much for its impressive contemporary art collection as it is for its elegant wines. Arnaldo Pomodoro’s Cancello Solare (Solar Gate) greets visitors, granting access to the winery through its two semicircle openings. This circular bronze structure pays homage to the sun, the nurturer of life and a crucial source of nourishment for the grapes. Brescian artist Bruno Romeda’s bronze Elogio dell’ombra (Praise of the Shadow), rests on the winery’s lake to reflect a kaleidoscope of shadows, geometry and light, while Bulgarian artist Rado Kirov’s, Gravity and Untitled Column is hidden among the trees. Egg Concept, conceived from recycled materials by Brazilian artist Spirito Costa, and Eroi di Luci (Heroes of Light), a white Carrara marble sculpture by German artist Igor Mitoraj, adorn the winery’s lawn.

Feel like someone — or something — is watching you? Look up: the Blue Guardians, a pack of neon blue wolves crafted from recycled plastic by the Cracking Art movement group, preside over Ca' del Bosco from the rooftop. Head inside to the winemaking room where Stefano Bombardieri’s Il peso del tempo sospeso (The Weight of Suspended Time), a life-size cement and fiberglass rhinoceros, dangles over the steel tanks. A little further on, Water in Dripping, a delicate installation by Mongolian artist Zheng Lu, also lingers overhead. Testimone, a small and intriguing bronze sculpture by Mimmo Paladino, keeps vigil in the cellar while Il Dioniso, a wooden depiction of the god of wine by Bruno Chersicla, emerges from a barrel in the tasting room. Zolla Natura (Natural Plate), a polychrome ceramic by Bertozzi&Casoni, and Rabarama’s Codice Genetico (Genetic Code), a human figure coated in blue and white jigsaw puzzle pieces, complete the collection. Following the tour, take a seat in the tasting room to sample Ca' del Bosco’s elegant Franciacorta wines, including Annamaria Clementi, the denomination’s most famous label.

End the day with dinner at Due Colombe, chef Stefano Cerveni’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Here, Cerveni implements the local classic method into his inventive menu. Don’t miss the Purple Potato, Red Shrimp and Franciacorta, his signature dish. Cadelbosco.com