The long, flat outline of the Adriatic coast suddenly bursts out with a leafy mountain extending into the sea. This is Conero, a small area that contains the best the Marche has to offer: the blue sea and the green nature park, ancient villages and gentle hills, harbors, churches and castles, vineyards and farms not far from the urban charm of the capital city, Ancona, whose name comes from a Greek word meaning “elbow” and refers to the shape of the promontory on which the city perches. At the restaurants you can savor specialties from land and sea: brodetto and stockfish Ancona style, vincisgrassi (Marche-style lasagna), crescia bread and cold cuts, and meat stewed “in potacchio” are part of a centuries-old tradition based on the flavors of a generous land. There is also fresh fish and other seafood: definitely try the moscioli, the treasured wild mussels of Portonovo. There’s a wealth of diverse choices. Ancient dishes and innovative offerings can be savored in seaside cafés on the beach, in country trattorias or at an agriturismo in the rolling hills. Don’t forget to buy something yummy to take home.
Sampling Conero: 9 Restaurants and Stores Not to Miss
Portonovo
1Fortino Napoleonico
This 19th-century fortress overlooks a white pebbled beach. There is an elegant sea-view terrace where in summer you can enjoy specialities of traditional Marche cooking or creative, sophisticated dishes featuring tastes of the sea and more. Mussels, cuttlefish, squid, mullet ... as well as fresh pr...
Numana
2La Torre
The dining room windows here open onto a spectacular view of the Adriatic Sea, the perfect setting for a dynamic and creative menu focused on seafood, including classic dishes like boiled sea bass, turbot and striped prawns with traditional sauces and vegetables.
Ancona
3Ristorante Emilia
This is right on the beach, backed by the greenery of Conero and facing the blue sea. Between swimming sessions, visit the bar for snacks and drinks, or let the restaurant beguile you with seafood prepared in-house in the traditional way: spaghetti with wild mussels, mussels au gratin, mixed grill, ...
4Trattoria Mafalda
Terrine of potatoes, clams and sausage; eggplant and codfish parmigiana; tagliatelle with mussels or meat sauce: these are just some of the many surf- or turf-based specialties to taste in a location that is truly between the land and the sea. There’s a sweeping view from the terrace, and in the sum...
Sirolo
5Il Ritorno: food from the land
Spend an evening at an agriturismo that features stuffed pastas made by hand and rolled out with a rolling pin in the traditional way. Meat is served, too, as they raise cows and chickens on organic feed. The strongest dishes to sample include stew, tripe, pluck and chicken “in potacchio,” or Marche...
Montecarotto
6Moncaro Wine Cellar
When coming from Camerano on the Conero express route (direttissima) to Sirolo and Numana, stop at Conero’s red wine producer near the park. This old wine cellar has internationally prized wines and an array of local artisanal pastas, honeys, preserves and organic oil-packed vegetables, as well as c...
Numana
7Fattoria Le Terrazze
Want to stock up on goodness before heading home? This farm sells typical Marche products, extra-virgin olive oil and wine most of all: in addition to the Rosso Conero DOC that you probably enjoyed, it sells Marche IGT wine and other specialties.
Ancona
8Al chiosco di Morena
This is an institution in Ancona. It’s one of the last authentic seafood stands. Mussels, sea snails, oysters, fresh fish, dried fish, anchovies, scallops and smooth clams are all cooked according to tradition and served at the counter. Enjoy the food right there on the spot. This is real street foo...
9Bontà delle Marche
Deep in the historic center of Ancona, there is a place that is both a restaurant and a food store, an ideal place to try local products or bring delightful food home, to linger over a complete meal or relish an aperitivo. Cheeses, sausages, preserves, jams and house-made specialties are for sale al...
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