Riso al salto is a Milanese classic — made from recycled leftovers. It is risotto from the day before, pan-fried in a generous amount of butter and browned until crisp. It is simple and rich at the same time, easy only if you use the right technique. And it’s good only if the rice is cooked impeccably and the ingredients are of the highest quality.
This typical family dish became very fashionable after the Second World War when fried saffron rice pie was served in restaurants around the Teatro alla Scala in post-theatre dinners and it became even more popular in the 60s and 70s when it was recognized as one of the iconic dishes of Lombardy cuisine. Today, the riso al salto is one of those memories of an Old Milan that no longer exists but survives at only a few addresses — like a well-kept secret of the Milanese suburbs.
Where the Ice Palace used to be
La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi is a restaurant located at Via Piranesi 10 — right in the historic headquarters of the Frigoriferi Milanesi; once an ice factory used to store food and doubling as an ice rink from the late nineteenth century until 1970, the building has been renovated into a multifunctional center for culture, art and events. La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi, on the other hand, has been managed since 2014 by chef Marco Tronconi who — after his experience at the Trattoria del Nuovo Macello — began a new adventure here, proposing Italian regional cuisine tradition (especially Northern Italy) reinterpreted in a more modern key. La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi is one of those places frequented by regulars and enthusiasts. It’s not very fashionable and therefore finds itself excluded from the circuits of those looking for trendy restaurants, fake trattorias and places where "you can eat well while spending very little.” A pity... without aperitivo taverns that no longer exist and sing no more the praises of a lost tradition, but here, you find that true quality is made with excellent raw materials, considered “slow food” -- bought from selected suppliers in the area (mostly Slow Food Presidia vendors) featuring good technique and prices that won’t leave you footing a ridiculous bill. La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi is one of the six restaurants in the city awarded the “Bib Gourmand” for the Michelin Guide (i.e. where you spend less than €35) along with Trippa. And I don’t know where you can eat that’s cheaper than Trippa.
The riso al salto menu
Over time, chef Marco Tronconi has reinterpreted and proposed the risotto al salto in many different ways -- leading to the popular "Menu riso al salto" served during dinner that changes seasonally. Currently, there are four options available: risotto croccante con calamari e zucchine (12 euro), risotto croccante con rognoncino trifolato (12 euro), risotto croccante con scarola, raisins and dried tomato sauce (vegetarian dish) (12 euro) and ossobuco con risotto croccante (the traditional dish, 22 euro). Among the best dishes on the menu, you’ll find items like bacon dumplings in a vegetable ginger and shrimp broth, fish tartare with rocket, glasswort, passion fruit and sesame. A tasting menu is also available at dinner for 33 euros. In the cold season, the meat dishes abound, but fish often steals the scene. For example, La Cucina serves a cuttlefish stuffed with mushrooms and port sauce or perhaps you’d prefer the sardines in saor with a sauce of Tropea onions and raisins.
