When was the last time you had a pizza capricciosa? Years, probably. Traditionally Capricciosa pizza is the one with black olives, artichokes, cooked ham, mushrooms added as topping to the base of a classic Margherita. There is debate about the use of anchovies and boiled egg, but what’s certain is that it differs from the Four Seasons only in the arrangement of the ingredients: scattered all together or divided into four segments.
If the pizzamakers mozzarella and dough have evolved, as far as artichokes and cooked ham are concerned, the situation is still at the mercy of industrial products. Capricciosa pizza suffers from the use of canned mushrooms, spalla cotta (cooked shoulder) of dubious quality, bland olives and artichokes in oil poorly drained, or tasteless. Ciro Salvo, a young name in Neapolitan pizza has decided to bring the classic recipe back into fashion, elevating it with the best ingredients.
Ciro Salvo: the new Neapolitan pizza
"Pizza is a universal product to be protected and preserved in its essence of simple, genuine and widespread food. The art of Neapolitan pizzamakers has become world heritage, a tool and an opportunity to spread the true Neapolitan pizza," explains Ciro Salvo, father’s footsteps and third generation of a family of pizzamakers. Born in Naples, in 1977, he is one of the names of the new Neapolitan pizza. His research on dough distinguishes him from others because Ciro Salvo works the flour with percentages of water that exceed the traditional recipe creating a lighter dough which has been awarded many prizes by industry guides. "My dough is super hydrated and leavens for at least 20 hours at room temperature. The result is a soft, fluffy, easily digestible pizza. Cooking and seasoning are equally important, for example extra virgin olive oil is added only raw at the end of cooking". To this are added the best selections of tomatoes, dairy products, cold cuts, a superior wine list and beers.
Photo by Daniele Mari
Pizza Capricciosa
A pizza that has made history is the much-praised Capricciosa, many times kept in paper because it is part of tradition but considered the Cinderella of pizzas because it’s made with toppings of little value. "I wanted to elevate the essence of Capricciosa pizza with a selection of excellence”, explains Ciro. “My version is in fact called Capricciosa Campana with organic peeled tomatoes, fiordilatte di Agerola, salame irpino, roasted Cilento artichokes, black olives caiazzane, caciocavallo of noble milk from the Campanian Apennines added at the end of cooking, extra virgin olive oil DOP Colline Salernitane Torretta added at the end of cooking".
50 Kalò: his good bread dough
In 2014 Ciro opened his pizzeria 50 Kalò in Naples, a few steps away from the Margellina seafront. 50 in the Neapolitan Kabbalah is bread, while kalò in ancient unwritten jargon of pizzamakers means good: 50 Kalò is therefore good bread. Since 2014 he has been awarded with the 3 Spicchi, the highest award in the Gambero Rosso's Guide to Italy’s Pizzeria’s. In spring 2014 the New York Times dedicated an extensive report to him and wrote he did "one of the best pizzas in Italy". He is one of six Italian pizzerias selected by the prestigious Michelin Guide which, among other things, highlights pizzeria's accurate wine list. He is Ambassador of Neapolitan pizza in the world of Slow Food and in 2018 he won 3rd place in the ranking of the 50 Best Pizzas.
A project beyond pizza
In addition to the pizzeria, 50 Kalò is also a sandwich shop and hangout. Just as pizza is made first of all from good dough, so is a sandwich. A few meters away from the pizzeria Ciro Salvo opened in 2017 a high-quality hamburger joint with meat from a closed supply chain and certified Chianina, Marchigiana, Manzetta Prussiana, Angus americano, Caserta black pork, lamb and organic chicken. 50 panini actually offers 14 sandwiches that reflect Ciro Salvo's style and philosophy and recalls recipes and products on the menu of the Pizzeria 50 Kalò, such as the sandwich with Chianina hamburger, sautéed escarole with olives and capers and sundried tomatoes, and 50 craft beer labels. Last Neapolitan piece is 50 Suites, 6 rooms on the Caracciolo seafront in a 20th century building just a few meters from the pizzeria. In 2018, the opening of 50 Kalò in Trafalgar Square in London to bring real good Neapolitan pizza to the British.
