"Italians can't eat without bread!" exclaims Bar Italia's Executive Chef Denis Franceschini. Whether used to soak up sauce off a plate or as a complement to an aperitivo, bread is a necessity to any Italian meal.
While complimentary bread with olive oil or butter is customary at most Italian eateries here, it isn't in Italy. A few places in NYC offer premium free additions like ricotta cheese spread or chunks of Parmigiano cheese or even prosciutto.
In recent years, some restaurants have adopted the Italian standard of charging for bread service, while others have changed the content of the basket or made it available upon request only. They have done so because of shifting dietary trends (carb counting), waste management, and rising costs associated with in-house baking. Also, a couple of restaurateurs noted that the free bread competed with their menu offerings. Nonetheless, the customary Italian-American breadbasket will never disappear completely. "Our clientele comes to enjoy the food and experience," says Anna Fioriti, who owns and operates Sandro's with her husband, Sandro Fioriti. "We are glad to offer the bread."
Sfoglia's bread (ph Emilie Raffa)
At Sandro's, diners munch on grissini (breadsticks) made in-house while ciabatta accompanies the appetizers and the meal. Bar Italia also has breadsticks on the table and offers pane carasau, an imported flatbread from Sardinia, and sourdough and whole wheat bread are available too. Both order their loaves from Gian Piero Bakery in Astoria.
Bread on the table at Bar Italia (ph via IG)
For those who offer a breadbasket, no two are alike. Paola's has an in-house baked focaccia, and whole wheat and semolina bread from Il Forno Bakery in the Bronx. A gluten-free option from Eli's Bread is also available upon request. Il Gattopardo serves house-made faro focaccia and grissini plus ciabatta and whole grain with nuts and fruit delivered from Pain d' Avignon.
Marea's table set (ph via IG)
At Sant Ambroeus locations and sister Felice restaurants, options include house-made pane ai semi di girasole (sunflower seed), pane alla segale e cumino (rye and cumin), and ciabatta. Marea's in-house baked rosemary focaccia, olive rolls, and multigrain and sourdough bread are available throughout the meal. And Sfoglia presents each guest with one piece of their homemade rustic Italian country-style bread.
Eating with bread at Sant Ambroeus
Unlike Sfoglia, some restaurants charge a fee for their artisan bread created in-house. Portale’s menu offers a warm pagnotta integrale made with house-milled local grains. At il Buco Alimentari, a more extensive breadbasket includes options like buckwheat rye, bourbon raisin fennel, or ciabatta chosen from more than eight daily offerings. Both eateries bread courses are slices of heaven well worth the small price.
