I’m sitting in one of the two tasting rooms of Mandrarossa’s cavernous new winery in Menfi, a comune in southwest Sicily. From the window, ocher-hued soil lined with verdant vines stretches to the azure sea, which glistens its way out to the horizon to meet a cloudless, even bluer sky. I’m sipping the Santannella wine, a blend comprising 70% Fiano and 30% Chenin Blanc. I’ve tasted wines made from these two varietals on dozens of occasions but never as a single blend. The brightness, minerality, delicate smokiness, and nutty flavors are undercut by a quince and apple finish, two flavors I've come to associate with the Loire Valley's Vouvray Chenin Blanc wines. The flavors linger on my palate, affirming what I, an expat, believe is the biggest misconception about Italy: that Italians are stuck in their ways.
Photo: Mandrarossa
Case in point: Sicily, home to Mandrarossa's headquarters. It’s the land that keeps on giving. Though wine has been produced on the island since antiquity, it wasn’t until the last few decades that Sicilian wine officially “arrived” thanks to winemakers who shifted gears, turning their focus to quality over quantity. Sicily has 112,700 hectares of vineyards, including Pantelleria and the Aeolian Islands, making it Italy’s largest wine region. Five hundred and six of these hectares belong to Mandrarossa.
With two hectares on Pantelleria island and four on Mt. Etna, Mandrarossa, which was founded by the Cantine Settesoli cooperative, produces the bulk of its wines from grapes harvested on its 500 hectares in Menfi, located in Sicily's province of Agrigento that’s about an hour southwest of Palermo. Its soils vary, ranging from sand and clay to limestone and calcite. The scirocco wind blows through the vineyards closest to the sea while those planted in the hills further inland experience more fluctuating climate conditions.
Photo: Mandrarossa
Having started production in 1999 after two decades of research, Mandrarossa’s 22 prolific years haven't gone unnoticed. Its labels have garnered some of the wine world’s most coveted distinctions, such as a tre bicchiere (three-glass) rating from the prestigious Gambero Rosso guide for its Catargho Nera D’Avola and a 90-point rating from Rober Parker of Wine Advocate for the aforementioned Santannella.
In January 2020, Mandrarossa received VIVA certification from the Ministero della Transizione Ecologica (Ministry of Ecological Transition), and in summer 2021, the winery furthered its commitment to sustainability with the inauguration of its new cantina. Social responsibility compelled president Giuseppe Bursi to take this step — an obligation not just to Mandrarossa’s employees, but also to locals.
Photo: Mandrarossa
Outfitted with two spacious terraces and a lush roof garden, the 700-square-meter, the multi-level venue is constructed from natural materials and colors that meld into the ageless Menfishire landscape. In addition to the production plant and aging room, the winery lodges a shop and two tasting rooms that serve as the backdrop for Mandrarossa's newly launched food and wine experiences, which fall into three categories: a classic winery tour and tasting; enogastronomic tours that involve a light lunch with wine pairings; and a full-fledged wine experience. The most comprehensive, the latter, offers three options: Vertical, where participants try three different vintages of three different wines; a Nero d'Avola-focused tasting; and a wine lunch cooked by the women of the Mandrarossa Kitchen Brigade, 17 local women who prepare downright delicious casalinga-style specialties.
Photo: Mandrarossa
Mandrarossa's wines fall within three classifications: Research, Refound Histories, and Innovation. When booking the wine tours, participants can pick from a predetermined selection of wines…which brings me back to the Santannella, a wine from the Innovation line, a collection that experiments with native grapes and locally cultivated international varieties. The Timperosse, made from Petit Verdot, adds a Mediterranean flair to one of the seven major varietals of Bordeaux. Urra di Mare, made from Sauvignon Blanc, is bright and fresh with notes of passion fruit, citrus, lemon, orange blossoms, jasmine, and salty sea air. The Bonera is a smooth, balanced blend of Cabernet Franc and Nero d’Avola, and the Cavadiserpe is an interesting, complex blend of Merlot and Alicante Bouschet. These wines exemplify just one of the many facets of Mandrarossa’s philosophy: La sicilia che non ti aspetti (unexpected Sicily).
La Ruota di Menfi, photo: Jaclyn DeGiorgio
Lunch cooked by the Mandrarossa Kitchen Brigade arrives. The delightful four-course meal comprised of regional specialties is cooked with love and replete with flavor – mixed antipasti, busiate alla norma, sarde a beccafico in agrodolce (stuffed sardines in sweet and sour sauce), and the grand finale: la ruota di Menfi, a dreamy cannoli cream-stuffed confection. The wine pairings come from the indigenous varietal collection and include Zibbo Secco, Perricone Rosé, and Grillo, and we sip the Passito di Pantelleria alongside the ruota.
In addition, the annual Mandrarossa Vineyard Tour is slated to pick up again in 2022, a food-, wine-, and sea-filled weekend that has occurred over the past eight years. Whether travelers seek “Unexpected Sicily” or just good food and wine, Menfi has it. Mandrarossa's food and wine experiences can be booked online, and here are some tips for where to stay and eat.
Where to Stay
Relais Casa Mirabile – This revamped 17th-century home with cozy rooms and a great pool. website
Where to Get a Culture Fix
Parco Archeologico di Selinunte - Europe's largest archeological park. this sprawling Greek settlement dates back to the 6th century BC. Tip: Stop for almond granita at the stand in the Acropolis, not far from Temple C. website
Where to Eat
Da Vittorio - This seaside restaurant prepares fine seafood, from red shrimp crudo to polipetti murati (octopus in a tomato reduction) to linguine with clams to the world's best spaghetti with urchin...which happens to pair exceptionally well with Mandrarossa’s Etna Rosso.
Il Vigneto - Just 1 km (½ mile) from the beach, this resort boasts an excellent restaurant where the sea stands from and center. The excellent dishes include crudo, fritto misto, and spaghetti in a sauce made from John Dory roe. website
La Pineta - This restaurant on La Pineta beach is close to the archeolgoical park. Have crudo and spaghetti with sardines, saffron, wild fennel, and bread crumbs. website
The Beach
Menfi’s Blue Flag beach (unsurprisingly) has crystal clear sparkling blue water — it would be a shame not to go for a swim.
Cover photo: Mandrarossa