Where to Eat Traditional Pizza a Portafoglio in Naples

Pizza is a hymn glorifying Neapolitan cuisine. In Naples, the classic pie cooked in a brick oven, which you eat with a knife and fork as an entire meal and can find all over Italy, has been converted into street food. Pizza a portafoglio (literally “wallet” pizza) is a usually margherita or marinara type pie, slightly smaller than the classic one and with a thinner border, folded in four (which is why it’s also called “a libretto,” or booklet). It’s served freshly baked in a paper wrapper. Every now and then you burn your fingers, sometimes your palate, but these drawbacks never exceed the benefit of being able to eat one of the simplest and tastiest things in the world while walking down the street. It does, however, take a little technique to keep from getting yourself covered with sauce. The price is unbeatable. It used to be found exclusively in the alleys of the historic center, but today the pizza a portafoglio phenomenon has spread and good ones can be found in other areas of Naples. Here’s where: