Salento, Puglia, for Food Lovers

Salento isn't typical Puglia. From the exquisite sea to fascinating landscapes to exceptional Mediterranean cuisine, Puglia has an incomparable allure. And this is no secret, given the crowds of tourists who flock to its beaches every summer. 

Here's a look at Salento, a small, popular destination in southern Puglia located between Lecce and Brindisi, starting in Sannicola, a small hamlet that's home to Tenuta Mosè.

A welcoming retreat
Upon entering Tenuta Mosè, an imposing white plaster facade partially concealed in the shadows of palm trees greets us. It's not a typical Apulian masseria (farmhouse-turned-accommodation), nor a hotel. The rooms, one connected to the other,  surround a small green park, and the atmosphere feels more like a large house. The secret, fragrant garden offers peace, rest, and well-being, coupled with impeccable service and Il Petrosino, a high-end restaurant. 

In the kitchen, Angelo Motolese and Jennifer Bianchi, a young couple, prepare vegetables and herbs from the garden behind the kitchen, as well as carefully selected fish and meat. Angelo gravitates between his Apulian origins (he's from Grottaglie, Taranto) and his experience working in restaurants in Milan and London, adding a contemporary flair to traditional Apulian flavors. Jennifer, half Italian and half Uruguayan, fuses her heritage and experience in Liguria with traditional Apulian dishes. She prepares an Adriatic sea bream carpaccio with a lime marinade, onion, red pepper, peppers, and chili – an outstanding riff on South American ceviche. Dishes that fall more on the traditional side include orecchiette alla leccese with irresistible meatballs and a creamy, slightly acidic ricotta from Salento.

Fishermen in Gallipoli
This particular stretch of Salento is harsher than the rest of Puglia – parts are less easier on the eyes due to architecture that, while it's not exactly graceful, is charming nevertheless. In Gallipoli, a well-known ancient fishing town on the Ionian coast, an ancient bridge divides the city into two parts, connecting the "mainland" to a sort of "head" that lodges historic center with its alleys, ramparts, and beach. The view from the ramparts renders them a popular summer aperitivo spot. 

To explore its more artisanal/less fashionable side, we go up from the port and stop in the main square's fish market. Fishing boats are moored a few feet in the distance and fishermen offer samples of the catch of the day, such as the small and sweet gamberi viola di Gallipoli (purple shrimp of Gallipoli). We tasted them at the La Lampara restaurant, run by owner Luigi Padovano and his family. Fish market, fish lab, restaurant, everything revolves freshly caught fish – Padovano's son oversees a second, less rustic spot in the alleys of the historic center. 

Not far from Gallipoli, proceeding south along the coast, we arrive at Ugento-Torre San Giovanni, where sandy beaches with clear unspoiled water await. We stop at I Contadini, a farm that produces sun-dried vegetables that are then salted by hand and preserved. “This Salento area has a micro-ventilation that makes it unique,” says Edoardo Trentin, who, along with his siblings Emanuele and Gianna, owns the farm. “The Grecale and Scirocco sea winds affect the crops, offering them a uniqueness. This is the case of the capers, for example, which my grandfather started growing here in Salento.” 

He's referring to the Racale Caper, a  forgotten variety that was recently revived, catching the attention of Slow Food and Gambero Rosso guide, which in 2020 named it the best caper in Italy. These capers have intense aromas of aromatic herbs and Mediterranean shrub and a particular crunchy consistency.

At the crossroads of the seas
We continue walking south toward the spot where the Ionian and the Adriatic meet, stopping at Gagliano del Capo to discover an artisan workshop specializing in an age-old practice. At Tessitura Giaquinto, Francesco and Cosimino continue the work of parents and grandparents, creating fabrics from high-quality yarn. They're weavers but also mechanics because the looms are so ancient that you cut always source the parts needed for their maintenance. 

Their grandmother sketched several designs, ultimately recording hundreds of them. From tablecloths to towels to aprons to fabrics by the meter, it's easy to get lost in the shop. We stay conquered by the modular tablecloth, which can be stretched by adding segments at will, thanks to buttonholes and buttons.

We arrive at the extreme edge of Puglia, in Santa Maria di Leuca. After a visit to the basilica and the lighthouse, 102 meters (335 feet) above sea level, then head down to Marina di Leuca and then up to Punta Mèliso, the border point between the two seas, with pasticciotti in hand from Martinucci, a historic pastry shop. 

The little North
The last stop is Alezio to visit Le Macàre ("sorcerer" in local dialect). The "trattoria" has an ultra-modern aesthetic with an almost Nordic design, a stark juxtaposition to the landscape: elegant colors and shapes revolve around the large square wooden table. Owner Daniela Montinaro, one of the founders, greets us. 

Daniela left her life as a housewife behind to realize her lifelong dream: owning a restaurant. Her three children work with her today. Vincenzo and Francesco helm the kitchen, and Stella oversees the dining room and also handles the wines. The raw material is the subject of obsessive research, especially the oil, which even has a dedicated menu. The dishes are revisited classics. "I'm not an integralist of the zero-kilometer philosophy. If I need to find an ingredient that's not a local specialty, I go to where I can find a quality version," says Daniela with conviction. In the kitchen, Vincenzo's imagination stands front and center – he's passionate about street food and burgers, creating the Big Macara burger with gorgonzola and smoked pancetta. But, for the sake of experimentation, he loves switching things up in the kitchen.