I reach the Marianeddi estate at sunset. The light is soft but the colors are still intense: the red of the land, the blue of the sea and sky, the green of the citrus groves. Both my car and I are a bit tousled and covered in dust – souvenirs of the dirt road that led us here. But the fatigue, heat and noise dissolve as soon as I get out and admire the scenery. I have one certainty, which is also a hope: this is heaven.
Leave me here. An affectionate recovery This agriturismo set in the wild seaside nature of the Vendicari Nature Reserve is very near Pachino and the baroque masterpieces of Noto and Ragusa. It opened just a year ago, but has already won over many international guests, including the photographer Mario Testino, who came here from New York for a few days along with his crew. Understanding why is not hard. The only noise you hear is the song of the cicadas and the sound of the waves in the background. The estate has been built on a former farm estate of the late 19th century, and is less than a mile from the beaches of Marianelli, Calamosche and Tellaro.
I’m welcomed by the owners – the sisters Viviana and Alessia, along with their sister-in-law Eva – three professionals from Noto who along with their husbands decided to recover the buildings of this ancient farm, and 86 acres of surrounding land cultivated in part with citrus trees, olive trees and ancient wheat. “It’s the same wheat that the Romans used, taller and more durable,” they explain to me. The ruins were gradually repaired and renovated to get six rooms and a restaurant. Peaceful and determined, the owners have put a lot of care and out-of-the-box thinking into the enterprise, considering how Alessia studied engineering, Viviana specialized in communication sciences, and Eva is a psychologist and psychotherapist. We chat while sitting on ottomans made from old sacks of coffee filled with straw, sitting under a pergola covered with old linen sheets.
Everything has a natural design and flavor. Like the granitas made with mulberries, oranges and almonds, which are served as a refreshing welcome.
“We also make granitas with ricotta and pistachios,” says Eva. “We always try to use the best of the area and the farm.” Passionate about archeology, she invites me to take a walk on the beach before dinner, and tells me that hidden among the bushes of rosemary and myrtle are the remains of the city of Eloro, the ancient Hellenic colony where according to legend, the poet Sappho stayed during her exile in Sicily. Today these idyllic beaches are protected from the assault of the masses and visited by few tourists, often nudists.
Projected films and fresh juice I gladly listen to Eva and follow her along the paths that lead to the beach: the scent of wild thyme and the last spring flowers would connect even the most hardened city dweller with nature. “This is a place that a person seeks out. A bit off the beaten path,” she points out. In fact, the wi-fi is not very reliable, nor are the navigation systems, but these problems seem negligible. At dinner time we gather in the main building which houses the kitchen and restaurant. The menu is prepared mostly with the seasonal vegetables grown at the farm by Jean Paul Kana, the Canadian chef raised in Noto. “This summer,” Eva continues, “I’ve planned a series of dinners inspired by the shorts of the International Festival of Frontier Cinema in Marzamemi. We’ll project the films on the facade of the restaurant.” The menu has references to the family’s recipes and the surrounding nature: ravioli with wild herbs, organic almonds and shavings of Ragusa pecorino cheese; or a simple tartare, in this case made of tomatoes with burrata cheese. The dry pasta is produced in the area with the estate’s wheat, and can also be purchased. The bread is wonderful and handmade: the wheat is, of course, a recurring theme at the farm. Just like the cakes that I find the next morning at breakfast, along with the brioches and croissants, French yes, but generously stuffed with pistachio cream and served with an unbelievable fresh-squeezed orange juice.
I sip one while seated at a table set in the garden. The place mats in natural cotton sprayed with color recall the paintings of Jackson Pollock. In fact, just like all the fabrics used at the agriturismo, they are the work of the Sicilian artisan Eugenio Vazzano, who had a background in fashion before returning to his native Melilli. Beside me some pillows made of herbs are spread out: thyme again, this time packed into soft natural pillows. “I like calling them thyme-mats,” Eva says. The idea is from Aromi Sicily (gliaromi.it), the agronomist-philosopher Enrico Russin’s plant nursery in Scicli. You can also use them for yoga. Not that there is a great need here. Inner peace is included in the price.
Photos by Monica Vinella