Let's head towards south-eastern Sicily to discover Scicli, one of the precious jewel cities of Sicilian Baroque in terms of food and wine.
Situated on the Hyblean plateau a few miles from the sea. To get there you have to cross the rugged and peaceful countryside of the province of Ragusa, with a labyrinth of white dry stone walls leading to the town center.
Scicli was one of the cities most affected by the terrible earthquake of 1693. In the same year, from the rubble and blood of that natural catastrophe, the inhabitants didn’t lose heart and dedicated themselves to the reconstruction, which lasted for three centuries. The architectural style mixed together forms of late Baroque, the dominant culture in the eighteenth century, with buildings in Rococo, Liberty and Neoclassical style built between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.
Together with Catania, Caltagirone, Caltagirone, Militello, Modica, Ragusa Ibla, Noto and Palazzolo Acreide, Scicli was recognized in 2002 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its extraordinary artistic and urban context, in particular for Via Mormina Penna, a scenic street in the historic center from which our food tour in the "lace city" starts.
Macelleria Trovato
Just steps away from the Town Hall, used as the office of the commissioner Montalbano in the TV series, sits Maccelleria Trovato, managed by Franco and Salvina together with his son Alex. An unmissable stop for real foodies who can taste some of the ancient recipes of the Sciclitana tradition such as the cucciddatu scaniatu (bread doughnut), a mixture of lard and cheese from Ragusa enriched with sausage and ricotta. The special feature lies in the fact that Salvina uses Russello flour (an ancient native wheat), mother yeast and lard prepared directly by the butcher's shop. Another specialty is the hard bread (the bread of Scicli's house) that the inhabitants call pistolu because of its curious elongated shape.
Via Nazionale 24 - Scicli
Opening hours: 8/13:30 - 16:30/20:30 every day (closed on Sundays)
Nivera – natural fresh ice cream
Elisabetta and Sofia are two true artisans of flavor. Their delectable shop is listed in the main guides for the delicious ice creams, sorbets, and granitas, and considered amongst the best in Sicily. The manufacturing process is strictly artisan and hydrogenated fats, preservatives, artificial flavors, and colorants are totally banned in the kitchen. The flavors vary in accordance with the season and the natural produce used enhance the short supply chain of Sicilian honorable producers: almond pizzuta from Avola, ricotta cheese from Ragusa, hazelnuts from Nebrodi, ‘tabacchiera’ peach from Etna, strawberry from Maletto, sesame from Ispica and lemons from Syracuse.
Via Francesco Mormina Penna 14 - Scicli
Opening hours: always open from June to October
Cannolia, the warm cannoli N.1 in Sicily
Among the new openings we want to highlight Cannolia, an artisan pastry shop inaugurated last June 13th in Via San Bartolomeo, just steps away from the church with the same name that houses a valuable wooden nativity manger. It is an original concept, entirely dedicated to this symbolic Sicilian dessert, with the novelty idea of tasting it in a different way: the crispy wafer is fried on the spot and the customer can choose from seven different variations of cream for the filling. The cannolo is then served hot and crispy in just three minutes. The idea comes from an old family recipe book found by Davide Roccasalva, a young confectioner from the area, who was particularly careful with the natural produce used (old grains for the wafer and no seeds, additives or preservatives in its preparation) and frying, the real secret for the success of this dessert (cannoli are fried at a temperature of 175 degrees in high oleic sunflower oil enriched with vitamins and antioxidants).
Via San Bartolomeo 10 - Scicli
Opening hours: 9/13 - 16/21 every day (closed on Sundays)
Where to sleep
Scicli Albergo Diffuso
A widespread hospitality formula to live an authentic and unconventional experience, but with all the comforts of a hotel. The rooms and independent apartments are all located in the historic heart of Scicli while the reception with breakfast room is located in the very central via Mormina Penna.
What to see
Antica Farmacia Cartìa
Founded in 1902, Cartìa Pharmacy still preserves intact on its shelves jars with natural essences, ampoules, bottles, scales and an antique cash register. For fans of the television series, this historical site is one of the "places of Montalbano".
Via Mormina Penna 24 - Scicli
For guided tours please contact the cultural association Tanit Scicli at the phone number 338 8614973
Bonelli-Patanè Palace
The last testimony of an aristocratic-bourgeois world, this palace still retains its original furnishings. Once you cross the entrance threshold on Via Mormina Penna, you climb up the staircase and immerse yourself in the magical ‘Leopard-esque’ atmosphere.
Via Francesco Mormina Penna 53 - Scicli
For guided tours please call 340 4756053
Lunch by the sea
PataPata
For lunch with a sea view we recommend Sampieri, a seaside village in the vicinity of Scicli, just a ten-minute drive from the historic center. On the long golden sandy beach you’ll find PataPata, a terrific restaurant with a deckchair and umbrella rental service. The ideal place for a regenerating swim in the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean.
Via Miramare - Sampieri
Visit the cellar
Riofavara
Massimo Padova’s winery is located in Ispica and produces one of the best oenological expressions of winemaking Nero d'Avola and Moscato di Noto, which are the two typical grape varieties of the area. Amongst the wines to try are the bubbles of the new classic method. Since the month of June, wine tourism activities have started again. For wine lovers there are also three wine suites surrounded by vineyards, all with a tasting cellar room.