For those who love simple cuisine based on fabulous ingredients and shun the pretentions of “haute cuisine” Sardinia is the place. Of course, this in no way means that there aren’t excellent chefs there (just look at Roberto Petza and Stefano Deidda); rather, there is just less demand for fine dining. Sardinians tend not to want to follow fashions, and even pride themselves on stubbornly resisting trends. Those who come to Sardinia on vacation can be split into two groups: the ones who need to go to “chic” places (and there is no lack of these, especially on the Costa Smeralda,) where the food is not the essential ingredient; and those who are looking for a good agriturismo. Relying on word of mouth or exploring on your own won’t always lead to a good result. This is why we have selected some places where you can be sure the food on offer and the wine cellar will be nothing like the chic venues, but there will be good surprises in store.
Roasted meat
What’s the difference between one agriturismo and another? Apart from the hospitality – which is generally good, tending toward excellent the farther you get from the coast – and the location, it’s definitely the quality of the food, which must consist of at least 70% of products that are grown, reared or prepared in-house. Since every area has its own particularities, the traditional agriturismo’s foundations lie in meat: from the legendary porcheddu (suckling pig roasted on a spit) to lamb and kid, roasted with herbs and spices, above all myrtle and rosemary. But you should taste the goat stew as well, usually prepared with wild fennel and white wine. Then there are the pasta dishes: culurgiones di patate (dumplings stuffed with ricotta cheese and mint, or with a stuffing made of potatoes, fresh cheese and mint), malloreddus (gnocchetti dumplings made of semolina flour traditionally flavored with saffron); maccarrones de busa (a sort of bucatini made with a suitably elongated metal tool); Gallurese soup and the pane frattau, i.e. carasau flatbreads soaked in broth, arranged in layers with grated Pecorino cheese and tomato sauce, with a poached egg on top.
Great cheeses
An agriturismo without cold cuts and cheese is unheard of. (The best cold cuts are the pork prosciuttini and the wild boar of Villagrande and Talana) Sardinian Pecorino is renowned throughout Italy. You can find it very fresh or seasoned to the point where it tingles. Then there is fresh or roasted Casizolu cheese, which is often served with honey. It’s no coincidence that the island’s typical dessert – the seadas – uses them as filling. The seada is a thin pastry pouch enclosing fresh, slightly acidic Pecorino cheese, made to melt with semolina (or fresh cow’s milk) and then flavored with lemon. Fried and covered in warmed honey, preferably bitter (like strawberry tree honey, which is a Sardinian specialty), they are the perfect way to cap off the experience.