Agrigento, Sicily, a city and province on the island's southern coast, can be “one, no one, and a hundred thousand,” to borrow the title of one of Luigi Pirandello's best-known novels. The 20th-century writer, whose works have been translated into English and include the play Six Characrers in Search of an Author, was born there.
Many who visit this stretch of southern Sicily see only the Valley of the Temples without taking the time to discover Agrigento's gourmet goodies and discreet artistic sites, which is a shame. Here are some other ideas to keep in mind when you're in town.
Literary itinerary
Pirandello fans can retrace the places mentioned in his novels. The love for his land is alive in his writing, which has a deep Mediterranean connection. The Old and the Young is the work in which the Nobel Prize-winning writer best describes the city and its churches. “Looming atop the hill with its ancient Norman cathedral dedicated to San Gerlando, the Bishop’s Palace, and the Seminary, Girgenti was the city of priests and death knells. From morning to night, the 30 churches exchanged long, slow peals of mourning and calls to prayer.”
Two of the most beautiful are Santa Maria dei Greci, with the visible remains of a Greek temple, and San Nicola, which is directly connected to the Agrigento Archaeological Museum.
For foodies
Start in the old working-class quarter of Rabato, located outside the walls, and ends at the Bibbirria, the door of the winds that opens towards the plateau of the Norman cathedral. One of Sicily's oldest religious buildings, the landmark signifies the Christian re-conquering of Sicily after the Arab occupation.
Drop in on the Santo Spirito Monastery where cloistered nuns still preserve the original recipes of the convent's historical bakery. The must-taste dessert is the “heavenly” pistachio couscous (not to be confused with the savory Arab version). Dating back to the 14th century, the dolce contains pistachios, almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, walnuts, candied fruit, dates, and spices.
No longer used for worship, the church of San Pietro has been converted into a multi-purpose space by the Temenos Cooperative, whose annual program features rich cultural and musical events. The cooperative runs the Terracotta restaurant, a must-visit for those who are eager to sample Sicilian seafood at its finest along with several Slow Food presidia ingredients, all prepared by chef Fabio Gulotta.
One cheese of particular note is made from the milk of the Girgentana goat, a native breed with majestic spiral horns. Local breeder Giacomo Gatì recently saved them from extinction. Some goats have been placed in the Park of the Valley, where visitors can admire them from the large enclosure in front of the Temple of Concordia. Via Atenea, a central road, is home to Restaurant La Scala. Here, guests can sample the dishes of chef Vincenzo Santalucia, a promising addition to the new Sicilian cuisine.
Almond Blossom Festival (1/10 March)
The Almond Blossom Festival in Agrigento, Sicily, takes place in March and is one of Europe's oldest folk festivals. This popular Agrigento tradition precedes the arrival of spring, celebrating the blossoming of the tree that is emblematic of this stretch of the Sicilian coast. Every year the event attracts millions of visitors and folk groups from all over the world who perform in the shadow of the temples under the banner of inter-cultural dialog.
Dawn at the Temples with granita
Every Sunday in August, CoopCulture organizes theatrical sunrises in the storied Valley of the Temples. During the extraordinary event, spectators watch the majestic sunrise while visiting the sacred ancient city guided by an archaeologist and expert guides. The visit ends with brioche and almond and lemon granita – a typical Sicilian breakfast.
This article was originally published in September 2019 and has been udpated.