Milan is not an overwhelming city that hits you like a lightning bolt. It’s a slow-burn city to explore beneath the surface. And yet it remains Italy’s most visited city and the only Italian entry in the top 20 most visited cities in the world (16 th place to be exact), according to the Mastercard Global Destination Cities Index. One of Europe’s top 10 destinations, as well as the capital of Lombardy, only Rome and Venice can compare. But people come to Milan not just for history, art and beauty: they come to live like the Milanese.
The capital of fashion and design, as well as the economic hub of Italy, Milan is now the capital of the country’s restaurant industry, too. The largest concentration of Michelin stars, up-and-coming chefs, trendy addresses and international-style restaurants are to be found here. There is always some new opening, and going out in the evening, for breakfast or a business lunch is a true part of the city’s lifestyle. Don’t bother looking for “traditional” cuisine, though; Old Milan survives in its architecture alone, and even risotto with ossobuco is served by young hipsters sporting beards. “Authentic” in Milan means rooftops with a view, Instagram-worthy brioche, cocktails and trattorias run by Milanese transplants. But the food is good – even better than your grandma used to make.
Here’s a guide to feeling like an authentic Milanese, including not-to-be-missed addresses and new openings.
Pastry-shop breakfasts
Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, even on Instagram. Breakfast in Milan is not only Instagrammable, but artisanal, too. And it’s to be enjoyed strictly outside the home. The glories of the past can be found in the likes of Marchesi in Corso Magenta, Pasticceria Cucchi, Cova Montenapoleone or Gattullo, where you can breathe in the charm of Old Milan. Pasticceria Pavé was born a few years ago as a hipster magnet and is still one of the most beloved, award-winning and indisputably coolest spots in the city. A few steps away is a new entry, Gelsomina, beloved by bloggers for its maritozzo (a Roman sweetbun with whipped cream that is now also in fashion in Milan).
Natural and urban wines
For an aperitivo or after-dinner drink, there’s Enoteca Naturale and Vinor, a stone’s throw from Navigli, as well as Champagne Socialist in the Porta Venezia area. In the Porta Romana area head to Vino, while for a glass accompanied by a bite to eat opt for Mater Bistrot. Want to try a Milanese wine made right in the city? Then check out Cantina Urbana, which presses, bottles and serves Milanese DOC wines.
Pizza and cocktails
In Milan, pizza with beer is a no-no! Ever since Dry, in Via Solferino, launched the trend a few years ago, cocktails have become an integral part of pizza menus. Dry is still a sure thing, but Giolina, a new opening, also offers excellent pizza, designer drinks by MAG Cafè, and natural wines.
(Modern) Trattorias
The old trattorias proposing typical Milanese specialties are disappointing. Better to choose from the new generation boasting excellent, quality products and professional chefs. For years Ratanà has remained one of the most trusted addresses for mondeghili, nervetti and risotto with ossobuco. For a table at Trattoria Trippa, which has become an international phenomenon, bookings are required weeks in advance. But for a taste of their cooking, head to the new spin-off Fratelli Torcinelli: fast food dedicated to bombette and other typical dishes from Puglia.
Bao and Chinese dumplings
The Chinese community in Milan is one of the oldest in Europe and Milan’s Chinatown boasts a number of excellent, new-generation Chinese restaurants. Along Via Paolo Sarpi you can stop for dumplings on-the-go at Ravioleria Sarpi, while in the northern district of Nolo there is convivial restaurant Le Nove Scodelle. Or go where the Chinese go when they want to treat themselves to good Chinese food: Mu Dim Sum, in the Central Station area.
Cotolette
Breaded cutlets in Milan are somewhat of a myth to be debunked, as it’s not so easy to get good ones: thick, on the bone and cooked in clarified butter. The best in the center are to be found at Ristorante Daniel in Brera or at Osteria del Brunello in Corso Garibaldi. To go easy on the pocketbook, head to Da Martino in Via Farini, a by-the-slice pizzeria that has made the cutlet its star. Far from the center, the cotolette at Antica Trattoria Il Ronchettino and Trattoria del Nuovo Macello are highly recommended.
Chef’s bistro
An affordable Michelin-star experience? At Cracco in Galleria you can eat a pizza (the one that had social media up in arms) or other classic dishes, cooked by the MasterChef judge himself. Then there’s the bistro at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Milan, run by two-starred Antonio Guida. Giancarlo Perbellini has also arrived in Milan, after his two Michelin stars in Verona, with the award-winning (and rightly so) Locanda, as excellent value for the money.
Rooftop bars
Ceresio 7 is without a doubt the most beautiful rooftop bar in Milan. Its restaurant and pool bar are perched on the terrace of the historic Enel building, headquarters of the Dsquared2 group. Chef Elio Sironi serves up contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in the kitchen, while barman Guglielmo Miriello mixes behind the bar. For something new, try the small terrace of Clotilde, in the Brera area, where you can sip cocktails by wiz-kid Filippo Sisti and enjoy dishes by chef Domenico Della Salandra.
Aperitivo on the Navigli canals
Though a must, happy hours with pizza buffets and cheap cocktails are certainly no longer in fashion. Fortunately, some of the best cocktail bars in Milan are also concentrated here: MAG, Rita and Pinch. Rita’s Tiki Room is a new addition, with tiki cocktails and pan-Asian-inspired dishes.