Farm-to-Table Dining in the Cinque Terre 

Sea-to-table dining in the Cinque Terre isn’t as straightforward as its seaside location might suggest – sometimes a fish's sea of origin can be questionable. Sadly, some restauranteurs opt for the easy, most cost-effective option: buying frozen seafood from abroad to pawn off as, say, “octopus from our gulf.” Conversely, there are plenty of establishments that don’t. Yet, for those who do, one can’t help but wonder if their meat and produce are as dubious as the seafood.

Admittedly, Cinque Terre’s seaside is so enchanting that it can eclipse the farms, dairies, vineyards, olive groves, and agriturismi studding the hills that divide the towns. It’s a shame because these establishments add just as much flair to the table as they do to the landscapes. Anchovies, octopus, and gambero rosso di Sanremo (red shrimp from Sanremo) are some of the swimmers that characterize Ligurian cuisine, but the land is just as prolific. Accordingly, several of the region’s signature dishes are fish-free: trenette or trofie al pesto, focaccia col formaggio (cheese focaccia), pansoti con salsa di noci (stuffed pasta with walnut sauce), chestnut flour pasta, and coniglio al ligure (Ligurian-style braised rabbit). This is rooted partially in how Ligurians fled inland during the 16th-century pirate raids, but mostly due to how the Ligurian Apennines have always been.  

Unsurprisingly, the unspoiled surroundings of the Cinque Terre reap fine products. Christine Mitchell and Manuel De Fina, owners of La Cantina di Miky restaurant in Monterosso, are unwavering in their commitment to the territory, prioritizing quality over quantity when it comes to ingredients. Over the last 12 years, they have forged relationships with dozens of fishermen and farmers, and this summer, they began a collaboration with Agriturismo Missanega, launching a farm-to-table initiative that brings the flavors of the hills to the table.

Just three kilometers (five miles) away from Monterosso’s center, Agriturismo Missanega overlooks the gulf from its perch at 230 meters (750 feet) above sea level. Having opened in August 2020, it’s a newer addition to the landscape – well, new in its current incarnation. This 19th-century stone cottage was inhabited up until the 1980s, and in 2014, two Monterossini, Alessandro Rossignoli and Daniele Betta, acquired the estate. Working with donkeys, they recovered three-and-a-half hectares of uncultivated land, converting it into an organic farm. Along with their wives Francesca and Tatiana, they restored the house, implementing an aesthetic that fuses tradition with eco-compatible materials and styles. The five guest rooms, named for local herbs like basil and marjoram, are individually designed, but each features a breathtaking view of the hillside as it descends and fuses into the sea.

At La Cantina di Miky, Mitchell and De Fina plan their menu around what Missangega has available and alternatively, the Missangega team has planted vegetables, like black tomatoes and purple potatoes, at Mitchell and De Fina's request. Il gambero e lo scampo incontrano un pomodoro di Monterosso (shrimp and langoustines meet a tomato from Monterosso) dish warps beefsteak, cherry, standard, and black tomatoes from Missanega into different preparations and consistencies –  foam, oil-cured, pickled, powder, and confit – the couples them with grilled local scampi and gambero viola Santa Margherita di Ligure (purple shrimp from Santa Margherita di Ligure). L'orto nel piatto (Garden on the plate) combines pasta made from biodynamic flour from Agriturismo Il Cerreto in Tuscany with Missanega vegetables sautéed in the agriturismo’s DOP olive oil and shavings of a cow’s milk cheese from Val di Vara, a nearby inland river valley.

“We use a little bit of Missanegea in all of our plates,” says Mitchell. “We use all we produce we can get from them. We want to support local farmers. Plus, it’s also a challenge for us to come up with a new menu so frequently, so it forces us to constantly be creative."

She explains that in the Cinque Terre, a lot of organic producers don't find it necessary to certify themselves as organic. Sure, there's some bureaucracy involved, but mostly because the Cinque Terre is a national park and UNESCO World Heritage site, and “the land has always been used for what it's always been used for.” 

Further, people have adopted their grandparents' attitude of respecting the land. "They don’t add chemicals. The land is pure. I feel comfortable knowing the food is completely uncontaminated and fresh.”

Agriturismo Missanega is a destination in and of itself, offering experiences in partnership with the Pro Loco, a local grassroots organization: olive oil and wine tastings, pesto making, or an educational tour of the farm. Visitors can also plop down at one of the tables beside the ape food truck, which sells products and local wines, for a bite to eat or a post-hike respite. The agriturismo produces and sells DOP extra-virgin olive oil and lemon confiture, and it's one of a handful of the Cinque Terre's limoncino liqueur producers. As for the future, wine and fruit nectars are on the horizon. Missanega's restaurant, which opened in May 2021, is open for lunch, dinner, and aperitivo, and complimentary shuttles run hourly to and from Monterosso.

“It comes full circle and I wish more restaurants here would do it,” says Mitchell of the farm-to-table philosophy. “Local product costs more and it’s reflected in the price of the dishes. But I think people do appreciate kilometer-zero and what’s local and fresh. The seasonality and ingredients shine through on the plate. We explain that everything is sourced from as close to the restaurant as possible, and you can see people are happy when they eat. And we’re happy to tell the story."

Cover photo:  La Cantina di Miky's Cundigiun “our way.” This Niçoise-like salad has seared fresh tuna with Missanega's green beans, potatoes, tomato “caviar” and egg. It also has dehydrated taggiasche olives, extra-virgin olive oil from Missanega infused with basil from Prà, and local anchovies cured in lemon. Credit: Andrey AK