The essential point is the tortellini. And the only way is with broth. It’s okay to be missing something else. But not tortellini, as it’s just not Christmas in Bologna without them. Simply ask any home in the shadow of the city’s two towers and beyond. Toiling grandmas makes everything at home. They begin in mid-November with certosino, the typical dessert, and continue until the week before Christmas, rolling out the dough just a couple of days before the holiday while simultaneously preparing the broth. The zampone and cotechino are purchased in advance from the trusted butcher, and the green sauce is made at home. But in the event you can’t have everything homemade, much can be bought in the city center. It’s practically enough to hit the neighborhood’s four corners to ready your holiday table.
Mortadella
From Simoni (at Via Drapperie 52) you’ll find real artisanal mortadella by Pasquini & Brusiani and all other kinds of cured meat.
Tortellini
There are dozens of places that prepare them to order (don’t wait until the last minute). They range from 20 to 40 euros per kilo. The can even be delivered. Sfoglia Rina has been right in the center on Via Castiglione for a number of years, while Naldi has been on Via del Pratello for over 50. The classic rule says the dough must be thin enough to see the basilica of San Luca when held to the light. But don’t bother trying, the tortellini are already closed up.
Meat
Meat is a must. Serve capon for the broth, and cotechino, zampone and chicken. In Bolognese homes, there will be an array of boiled meats. While Zivieri is the best known name, there is also RoManzo, where the meat can be eaten, at the Mercato di Mezzo (Via Clavature 12). The establishment and shop are at Via Dozza 36 in Zola Predosa. Right in the center is the Ronocchi poultry shop (Vicolo Ranocchi 4 B/C). Another historical spot is Tamburini, where you can’t go wrong with zampone cotechino.
Candied products and mostarda
Head straight to Melega at Via Clavature 14. The mostarda to buy here is the typical Bolognese version: quince, pear and orange.
Sauces
From Gilberto between Via Drapperie 5 and Via Pescherie Vecchie 18. Bolognese green sauce (parsley, capers, anchovies, garlic, pickled onions and milk-softened bread) is used for boiled meats. There are also wines, liqueurs and quality chocolates.
Certosino
It’s certosino – and not panettone or (even less so) pandoro – that is eaten at Christmas. It’s a round, dark dessert decorated with candied fruit. The Treccani dictionary defines it as a sort of Bolognese panforte, prepared according to a recipe by Carthusian monks. From the oven of Paolo Atti & Figli, on Via Drapperie, comes the official recipe which has gone unchanged for 145 years.
Chocolate tortellini
If you want to continue to dessert, try tortellini... chocolate tortellini. You’ll find them at Gilberto as well, or at Majani. The shop with all the chocolate you want is at Via De’ Carbonesi 5.
Everything you can’t find anywhere else
Try going to Drogheria della Pioggia. It’s at Via Galleria 27. It has is everything, from spices to tea and coffee. If you can’t find it here it probably doesn’t exist.