Trastevere is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods of the capital, and it should be visited at least twice: once during the day to see the wonderful churches (like Santa Maria in Trastevere) and enjoy the enchanting atmosphere, then again in the evening to admire the same churches while strolling through the alleys teeming with nightlife.
Here are some choice spots for enjoying the neighborhood throughout the day.
Breakfast
If a good beginning bodes well, then the right place to start the day in Trastevere is Le Levain. After his training in baking croissants and baguettes, pastry chef Giuseppe Solfrizzi set up this little French-inspired jewel as a halfway point between a bakery and a pasticceria. And, never forgetting his Pugliese origins, he always includes some panzerotti and focaccia among the baguettes, croissants and quiches.
Lunch break
Trastevere offers an extremely wide variety of places to enjoy a quick lunch. From the generously filled bruschette of Brusco lo Strabuono (try the sciccheria and the carbonara) to the fried pizzas of Don, made with a strong Neapolitan inspiration. To remain on the Roman side, there’s the recently opened Eggs, a bistro dedicated to eggs and carbonara, with ten variations based on the most famous Roman pasta sauce. And the feature all kinds of eggs: quail, ostrich, caviar and sea urchin roe.
Snack
What better snack than gelato? The gelato you find at Fatamorgana – a very good chain of Roman gelaterias – is enjoyable even when it’s cold outside, thanks to the creative variation of flavors based on the seasons. Try the less conventional ones, and listen to the staff’s recommendations.
Aperitivo
If, especially in summer, you see what appears to be a rabble-rousing gathering in a small square right on the Tiber river, don’t worry—it’s just the aperitivo hour at Freni e Frizioni. Here you can find excellent cocktails and a well-stocked wine bar. Those who prefer a glass of beer to spur their appetite might want to try the brewery Ma che siete venuti a fa’. Despite its not-so- welcoming name (“What are you doing here?” in Roman dialect), it’s a reference point for craft beer. You’ll also find a good glass of wine at the Enoteca Ferrara, just a step away from Piazza Trilussa, where the statue of the poet is located. Enjoy a glass of wine with a mixed platter to snack on; or, at lunch, linger for a longer break.
Dinner: Pizza
Despite the number of restaurants in the neighborhood, pizza is not exactly Trastevere’s strong suit. Still, you can find a few locations to accommodate all tastes. Ai Marmi is good for those who love Roman crunchy pizza. it’s also commonly known as “the morgue,” because of the marble slabs on which the food is served. Let yourself be enticed by a baccalà fillet, which is one of their mainstays. For those who love Neapolitan-style pizza, a famous spot (despite its Roman name) is Dar Poeta. Here you can also enjoy Roman cuisine, so it’s a good place to satisfy all cravings. Last but not least, there is Bir&Fud (the phonetic spelling of Beer & Food). Behind this pizzeria are some big names in the Roman food service industry, including Fabio Spada, Cristina Bowerman, and Gabriele Bonci, who have chosen doughs and leavenings for their pizzas that can be rightly defined as “gourmet.”
Dinner: Roman trattoria
In such a funky neighborhood, you can’t help but be attracted by one of the innumerable trattorias. One top pick is Enzo al 29, where you’ll find all the cornerstones of Roman cuisine executed skillfully using good ingredients and served at fair prices. Sora Lella, a few steps away on the nearby Tiberina island, is a little pricier, but worth a visit. The late Sora Lella – actor-director Aldo Fabrizi’s sister, who played the grandmother of actor Carlo Verdone in his most famous films – is no longer around, but the reins are still in the hands of the family. Meanwhile, Spirito Divino is a halfway point between a trattoria and an elegant restaurant, and serves ancient recipes from Imperial Rome like Maiale alla Mazio. It’s also a wine bar, with a cellar that’s absolutely worth visiting because, in just a few steps, you can travel back over two thousand years.
Dinner: With stars
Despite its location, Glass Hostaria is not touristy at all, although over the years it has certainly attracted hundreds of visitors intrigued by the melting pot cuisine of one Michelin starred-chef Cristina Bowerman, whose education ranges “From Cerignola to San Francisco and Back” (the title of her autobiography.) The multi-faceted chef of Glass Hostaria moves between dishes that give a nod to tradition, like the amatriciana stuffed mezzaluna ravioli, and other that take you on a veritable world tour, via ingredients like green curry, Pantelleria capers, tamarind sabayon, quail egg and cocoa beans. The more recently opened Doppio, a pleasant location two steps away from Piazza San Cosimato, is also shooting for a star. The restaurant’s consultant is Giuseppe Di Iorio (one Michelin star at Aroma, a stone’s throw from the Colosseum), who has designed a menu that ranges from revisited tradition to more whimsical dishes that vary according to the seasons.