In literary myths, the concept of an “island” often describes an imaginary elsewhere to take refuge or represents a place of peace and serenity. Elba island possesses these characteristics thanks to the generosity of its inhabitants, the richness of its terroir, and the simplicity of its cuisine.
Eighty-six square miles in size, the little big island's rich history renders it an authoritative center of Mediterranean civilization. Several products flourish in the terrain, evoking shapes, colors, aromas, and flavors that can't be reproduced elsewhere. The mild and sunny climate, the fertile soil, and the scarcity of rain have given every fruit of the earth, both spontaneous and cultivated, a concentrate of flavor.
Elba is keen to proudly emphasize its territorial identity. The wild scenery crafted of minerals that emerge from its depths is an ode to biodiversity. This alchemy of salt and earth is a mixture of apparent opposites, where the intrusiveness of the sea is tempered by the wild scent of broom shrubs and fascinating architecture. Small businesses outline a quality rural fabric, sometimes modernized by technology, but always to safeguard integrity. And the villages set in panoramas of rare beauty all share a geography of culinary pleasures.
"It is hunger, it is the belly that moves the world," said Napoleon Bonaparte whose exile to Elba made the island known to the whole world – the bicentenary of his death was commemorated this past May.
"Certainly, more him [Bonaparte] than the nearly three centuries of belonging to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, " says Alvaro Claudi, the island's chef-gastronomist, as well as a profound connoisseur of its history. Napoleon used cooking as a weapon of seduction and not for the pure satisfaction of the senses, proudly claiming to consume meals in less than 10 minutes. He had an appetite for some curious personal preferences, such as the famous "dining carriage" of fresh fruit, lemons, biscotti, wine, and brandy. He was certainly not a grand gourmet, much less sensitive to the benefits of hospitality, but in the end, fundamentally, he was a supreme pioneer for Elba's cuisine.
Back in the day, the sound of a siren signaled the end of the tiring workday at the island's iron mines. The whistle announcing the break was always welcomed, even if the meal was rather frugal. The miner's dish par excellence was the sburrita di baccalà, a soup comprising fish, herbs, and vegetables served with garlic-rubbed toast. Today, it's on the menu at several restaurants, reflecting a strong link to the past. Davide Carletti serves up an exquisite version at his restaurant Da Cipolla located in the main square of the town of Rio nell’Elba.
As a civilization of miners and sailors, Elbans aren't really remembered for their fishing prowess. They fished for their own families out of necessity. Nowadays, though, this secular activity finds its essence in craftsmanship, with recipes showcasing the bounty of the surrounding sea, such as bonito, a less glamorous relative of mackerel and tuna. The fish lends itself well to several preparations such as those proposed at the Da Antonietta Pescheria in Capoliveri, where patrons appreciate its compact meat, the lack of scales, and few bones. The oily fish is gregarious and migratory, expressing its best flavor and textural qualities during the summer months when it approaches the coasts to chase the sardine shoals.
Anchovies, fragments, and other pelagic fish also abound. And then cuttlefish, lobster, and tannute followed by picarel, mendole, bream, dogfish, spider crabs, scorpionfish, mullet, dogfish, and snapper. Yes, they also fish for rock octopi which, when boiled, are a sort of local gastronomic ritual.
The herbs and greens that grow in the island's spontaneous gardens stand front and center in the local cuisine, including chard, nepitella, borage, and spinach. Michele Nardi, a handyman chef with an innate vocation for painting and sculpture, organizes walks to learn about the territory, and its customs, and to gather ingredients for his recipes. His dishes, prepared immediately after, are flavorful masterpieces.
Dried fruit (mostly figs), almonds and grapes, abound in the area and are widely used for traditional desserts, in particular for the breadcrumbs, which are also made with chocolate, and the imbollita, a sweet bread prepared with figs, fennel seeds, and honey. Pasty chef Gabriele Messina puts forth a dynamic take on these treats at Elba Magna, his pastry shop in Capoliveri that plays host to a veritable treasure trove of delicacies and food pairings.
Wine plays a fundamental role, from whites like Procanico and Ansonica to reds like Sangioveto to sweet wines like Aleatico, which have nothing to envy of the most qualified nectars of the Tuscan hills. Indeed, they hold their own, as evidenced during Antonio Arrighi's wine trekking in Porto Azzurro or among the lush vegetation of the Acquabona estate near Portoferraio.
Chocolate is obviously imported from the continent, but in the delicate and skilled hands of chocolatier Paola Francesca Bertani, it reaches peaks of extreme finesse, thanks to the addition of the best local raw materials.
Finally, many vegetables such as artichokes, cabbages, peas, and the delicious onions from Patresi accompany products from high altitude countries, for example, mushrooms, chestnut flour, goat milk, and sometimes sheep milk.
Returning to the coast, Sara Esposito's sheep graze the hills. The Neapolitan doctor of agriculture arrived on the island seeking a better quality of life that she found in Lacona. Here, she has opened Regali Rurali, a zero-impact, a dairy farm that produces wool and saffron in addition to cheese. All these products create a beautiful, complete table on which the island's culture transforms the ingredients. The surprising validity keeps the cards in good standing for a flourishing continuation.
Cover photo: Sofie Delauw