Simple and nourishing, Sardinian food has roots in ancient history. The second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sardinia started out as an agrarian center, with residents inhabiting its inland territory rather than its coasts. Even today, the cuisine is known not for seafood but for preserved meats and cheeses, for wines and thin light bread, the famous “Pane carasau.”
As Italy’s regions fascinate chefs throughout the United States, Sardinian cuisine remains underrepresented. In New York City, home to hundreds of restaurants specializing in Italian food, La Cucina Italiana only located three that focus exclusively on this island’s historic and colorful dishes.
Claudio Coronas and Rossana Patteri, the owners of D.O.C. Wine Bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, are the O.G.’s, having opened with a focus on Sardinian food and wine back in 2002. In this rustic and cozy enoteca-restaurant, executive chef Stefano Baldantoni offers some of the most famous Sardinian dishes like pane carasau toasted with EVOO, sea salt, and rosemary; Malloreddus, the typical Sardinian pasta with homemade pork sausage, tomato sauce, and Pecorino; and Fregola al Pistacchio, another typical Sardinian pasta with pistachio pesto and mascarpone cheese. (Chef Baldantoni, originally from Emilia-Romagna, pays tribute to his own roots by featuring Lasagne Bolognese and Ravioli.)
Founded by three Sardinian friends who fell in love with New York City and decided to make it their home, Epistrophy in Nolita is inspired by Sardinian tradition, albeit with touches from the rest of Italy as well as from America. From breakfast through dinner, Epistrophy offers a range of dishes that include Sardinian-inspired offerings such as Brasato al Cannonau, grass-fed short ribs braised with Sardinia’s indigenous red wine, and served with polenta. The restaurant also features an all-day menu with dishes like sunny side-up eggs served on the traditional crisp bread Pane Frattau with tomato sauce and Parmigiano Reggiano.
The other Sardinian-focused spot in New York City is Arco Café, open since 2014. The wide-ranging menu goes deep into Sardinian specialties, including dishes like Culurgiones, dumplings filled with potato, mint, and cheese, served with tomato sauce and topped with Pecorino. The café also offers fresh pastas and sauces to go, including many that reflect Sardinian’s deep culinary traditions.