I admire chefs who are not only brave enough to confront a taboo but are also clever enough to discredit it, such as pizzaiolo Simone Lombardi, a co-owner of Crosta - Forni con cucina in Milan. He opened this pizzeria/bakery/gourmet shop in 2018 with panificatore (bread baker) and co-owner Giovanni Mineo, and they earned several coveted accolades in the first year including a coveted three spicchi rating from Italy’s prestigious Gambero Rosso guide. At Crosta, Lombardi commits what Italians consider an irredeemable crime against pizza: a topping with pineapples.
Lombardi grew up in Padua, a city in the Veneto around 25 miles from Venice. His mother came from Mexico City and he pays tribute to his Mexican roots with the Ventricina pizza, an Italianized reinterpretation of tacos al pastor. The classic Mexican dish comprises a corn tortilla cradling onions, pineapple, and spit-cooked pork that’s first marinated with orange juice and the spice Achiote. The dish evolved from the Lebanese who fled the Civil War, introducing the shawarma and other cooking traditions to the Mexicans.
“The Lebanese brought a cuisine made of strong and deep-rooted traditions to Mexico, and profoundly influenced the local culture,” says Lombardi. “One example is the technique of marinating meat with citrus fruits, which before their arrival in Mexico was not widespread, and the use of coriander, an aromatic herb now present in many typical Mexican dishes but which is not actually indigenous.”
To make the Ventricina, named for a spicy sausage from Abruzzo, he dices the pineapple into small cubes, which he cooks in the oven before placing them on the pizza with fior di latte cheese and Ventricina, a spicy sausage produced in Central Italy.
“The Ventricina I’ve chosen is a particular product,” he says. “It’s made in the Teramo Hills [a province in Abruzzo known for its wine and olive oil production] and contains orange peel, so it allows me to uphold the citrus component of taco al pastor.”
After removing the pizza from the oven, he finishes with raw onions, coriander, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil before serving. Cooking the pineapple mellows out its acidity and sweetness, which complements the earthy, slightly tart coriander. There’s a brightness undercut by a touch of smokiness as well as a pronounced kick from the spicy sausage. The soft, delicate dough packs flavor, leading to bite after balanced bite, winning over the even the most skeptical diners.
“Since 2018 it has remained on the menu. People are curious to taste it," says Lombardi. "This pizza speaks of me and my origins, but it is also a story of integration, acceptance, and knowledge."