A large, black and white portrait of Nonna Bianca standing with her family greets guests in the entryway of this historic Modenese restaurant Trattoria Bianca. Sporting a white apron and pleasant demeanor, she showcases some of the territory’s classic specialties: a flask of Lambrusco, a leg of prosciutto crudo, and whole hens displayed neatly on the table, where a dark-haired little boy sits. His name is Giuseppe (Beppe) Tartarini — her grandson and third-generation proprietor. Family traditions stand front and center at the restaurant, as evidenced by the dining room’s unchanged appearance. Tartarini’s tattoos and polite disposition add energy that enchants the varied, faithful clientele.
The family portrait (ph Jacopo Salvi)
Tartarini’s Emilia-style welcome is evident not only in his fast, sing-songy accent but also in his passion for what he does. “I strongly believe that Italian cooking is fragmented into regional cuisine, which adds more value to the national cuisine as a whole. We carry this heritage forward with love and courage.” Nonna Bianca opened her namesake trattoria in 1948 after moving to Modena from the nearby town of San Felice sul Panaro, eager to dedicate her career to what she did best: cooking. Her rustic cuisine grew incredibly popular with the merchants of the cattle market, then one of Europe’s largest and most important. The 1960s brought university students who subsequently returned with their families, introducing a younger generation to the restaurant. Culture and entertainment personalities have passed through the door over the years. Luciano Pavarotti was a regular, and a table in the corner of the brick room is reserved for the Ferrari family, as indicated by two models of the Rossa, a copy of Enzo Ferrari’s book, and a Formula 1 Golden Pass.
Trattoria Bianca feels like home to Massimo Bottura, chef of the three-star Michelin-rated Osteria Francescana. “I used to come here before I existed,” he jokes, referring to his grandfather and father, regular visitors who owned a wood and coal store beside the trattoria. The chef has carried on his family tradition, dining there at least once a week with his wife Lara Gilmore and children Alexa and Charlie. “He appreciates the beef tartare, the cotoletta, and the pumpkin tortelli,” reveals Tartarini with a satisfied smile, “but he’s especially fond of the gnocco fritto with durone cherry jam.” Bottura’s dishes are known for that Renaissance-inspired contrast of sweet and salty found in the gnocco fritto and jam combo. The chef serves an incredible cotechino on sbrisolona, a crumbly almond tart, with sweet zabaglione cream for brunch at Casa Maria Luigia, an 18th-century manor in the Emilian countryside that he and his wife refurbished into an inn and restaurant.
Giuseppe Tartarini (ph Jacopo Salvi)
Tartarini’s Modenese menu comes straight from the family recipe book, using the same ingredients as his grandmother. The exquisite pumpkin tortelloni with guanciale is “a dish we’ve been dragging around since opening day.” When visiting, begin with a basket of light and fluffy, piping hot fried gnocco accompanied by Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello, and other local cold cuts, and pair it with a glass of Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine. Tagliatelle with prosciutto and peas, tortellini in broth, passatelli, and liver-filled quadretti pasta squares in broth are among the first-course dishes. The meat-centric second courses include a pork cutlet with an exaggeratedly large bone proportionate to the fullness of flavor, mixed boiled meats with salsa verde (green sauce), pepper sauce, and Cremona mostarda. Everything is home-made, including the bread, which tastes extra exquisite alongside Parmigiano Reggiano and “extra old” balsamic vinegar of Modena. Nonna Bianca has even left her mark on the desserts: along with the fried gnocco and pumpkin tortelli, the exceptional zuppa inglese (a custard and sponge cake dessert) has become the trattoria’s signature dish. Though, the ice cream with hot marasca cherries also warrants a mention.
Tortelloni with Guanciale (ph Jacopo Salvi)
Trattoria Bianca - Via Giovanni Battista Spaccini, 24, 41122 Modena MO, Italia