Simply perfect on eggs, noodles, and creamy risotto. But our dear old truffle is so much, much more. And for this reason, it also deserves to be tried in uncommon combinations, such as the one with pizza. That's right, His Royal Highness, Italian born, and most popular dish par excellence can meet up without any reverential fear the most prestigious mushroom that Mother Nature has ever conceived. The result of which can be a wonderful combination of flavors, very elegant without being pretentious, as demonstrated by the recent project undertaken by the famous pizzeria Lievità in collaboration with the Tuscan company Savini Tartufi.
An accessible small luxury
"What we like best about this combination is the union of a pop culture specialty like the pizza with truffles, typically regarded as a luxury," says Marco Basile, head of development and retail at Savini Tartufi. A combination that is not only democratic and successful but is also open various forms: in addition to freshly grated truffles, white or black, it’s possible to play with variant products, from rounded versions similar in appearance to caviar, to aromatized olive oil. "Truffles, the sophisticated white and a black truffle, are often limited to just the autumn season, but the truth is that in Italy there are fresh truffles, of different types, practically all year round " continues Basile. "The only word of warning is to remember that every type of truffle is a matter to its own". The white truffle for example, does not tolerate contact with heat, which doesn’t frighten the black hooked truffle. Even when combining with pizza in short, you have to learn to choose the most suitable products.
Truffle on pizza
So, how about truffle slices on pizza then? Absolutely yes please! It’s important to properly calibrate the use of this precious mushroom also in relation to the other ingredients we are going to choose. "I tend to try to avoid combinations of anything acidic such as tomatoes," suggests Giorgio Caruso, the master pizza chef from Lievità, in Milan. "The truffle has an important aromatic intensity and taste, which must be carefully incorporated into the recipe for it to work". The aim seems to basically be to achieve overall harmony: to do this it’s important you know the characteristics of the different kinds of product you are going to use. Caruso continues, "Valued white truffle is definitely more delicate and for this reason it’s important to remember not only to avoid direct contact with heat but also to favor combinations with other ingredients that are not too invasive. Perhaps herbs, or purely autumnal ingredients like porcini mushrooms and roasted chestnuts. The black hooked truffle on the other hand tends to be more tenacious, and for this reason it can also be used very well in recipes that include tasty cheeses like gorgonzola".
Some ideas for special pizzas
This is why, out of the Lievità oven emerges the Pizza del Contadino, which attempts to reproduce inside its soft crust the magic of the most classic of seasonal soups. The precious white truffle in this case is combined with a cream of roasted chestnuts, a mix of legumes and porcini mushrooms, with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to complete the magic. "Spelt is also used" points out Caruso, "not as an ingredient in the topping but directly in the mixture. My idea for this dish was to choose a 100% wholemeal mixture of organic monocoque spelt". And then drifting over to fried and baked Montanara pizza, with a semi-integral mixture made with black hooked truffle, salted cod fish burrata style (baccalà mentecato alla burrata), roasted artichokes and Agerola fiordilatte. In Gorago, where the black hooked truffle meets velvety green asparagus, quail's egg, fiordilatte of Agerola and sweet gorgonzola. All to be accompanied by a good craft beer, because yes, the allure of pizza meeting truffle also passes through the glass, and the ideal bubbles can also be those of a high-quality blonde.