Italy is the gift that keeps on giving to gastronomes worldwide. Along with the evergreen staples, there seems to be an endless parade of products or plates that are discovered in Italy and brought abroad not as fads but as additions to the existing cannon. A new present for American palates is a succulent cylinder of pork known as porchetta that is popping up on more menus and display cases.
A.L.C. Italian Grocery in Bay Ridge Brooklyn has had porchetta available every Saturday since the shop opened in 2012. Owner Louis Coluccio Jr. explains. “Coming from a southern Italian family, pork was always big in our house, though no one made porchetta. I had it when traveling in Italy, and I feel in love with it because simply prepared quality ingredients are what Italian cuisine is all about.”
The ingredients in porchetta, like a lot of Italian cuisine, are open to some interpretation, though the general configuration always involves a rectangular cut of pork belly flesh seasoned, rolled, scored on the skin side, tied and slow roasted. The blend of flavors and textures - unctuous pork, melted fat, crispy skin, bright aromatics (all enhanced by lots of salt) - is carnivorous rhapsody. It’s typically sliced and slathered on crusty bread, most famously sold out of food trucks in and around Rome, but sophisticated versions are possible, too, such as the porchetta at 232 Bleecker in Manhattan.
“I wanted to put porchetta on the opening menu at 232 because it isn't a dish that is found in many restaurants,” says Executive Chef Suzanne Cupps. “Our porchetta is cured, slathered with an herb and chili puree, rolled, roasted and then the skin is pan-fried. The key for me to a great porchetta dish is not only how perfectly the meat is cooked, but also what it’s served with. We paired it with two of the best December vegetables—sunchokes and chicories, sweet and bitter to balance out the plate.”
Angelo Competiello signature porchetta
The “Porchetta King” in America is perhaps Angelo Competiello whose signature porchetta was a best seller at his now shuddered A&S Fine Foods in northern New Jersey. He also traveled around America catering “Porchetta Parties” for large gatherings while also partnering with Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York City for special dinners. Even without the storefront and the ability to travel easily, Angelo remains an evangelical of the porky delicacy, doing popups at eateries in the New York area, including a recent collaboration with Settepani Bakery in Brooklyn where their airy croissants were stuffed with Angelo’s porchetta and select toppings.
“It’s a celebration of the pig and how it was raised, the butcher and his handy work,” Angelo explains his affinity for porchetta. “Mostly, though, I love it because it’s crispy, fatty, juicy. All the right adjectives.”
Recipes abound on the internet for porchetta, though experts agree on using pork belly (not shoulder or loin), lots of seasonings, and allowing the skin to dry in the fridge for a few days to maximize crispiness. If you’re in the Tri-State area, Angelo can deliver a raw porchetta with precise cooking instructions or even come over to throw a “Porchetta Party” for the upcoming Super Bowl.
Cover photo: Suzanne Cupps porchetta at 232 Bleecker (photo credit to Evan Sung).