The Norwegian Seafood Council has awarded Chefs Enrico and Roberto Cerea with appointments as 2019 Stockfish Ambassadors for Norway. Both are from Bergamo and executive chefs at the 3-star restaurant Da Vittorio (in Brusaporto, near Bergamo) and have been famous throughout the world for their fish dishes since the days of their father, Vittorio.
Things have changed since the ’60s, when their father opened his first Da Vittorio. Back then, the only fish found in Bergamo was stockfish: dried or salted fish, usually cod, known as baccalà in Italy. You could forget about finding jumbo shrimp and caviar, the way you can today.
“Fish meant stockfish, period. And it was called bertagnì then. I discovered years later that this was the last name of the man who imported it from Norway. He was called Bertagni,” Enrico recalled when Norway made the announcement. “In those days, there was a grocery store next to the restaurant, and as a child I saw them soaking these large fish in water for days and then beating them with a stick. Stockfish has always been part of Da Vittorio’s history.” And it still is, because one of the best dishes at the restaurant is, in fact, risotto with borlotti beans and creamed Norwegian stockfish. The risotto, a great classic of the Italian culinary tradition and Lombardy in particular, goes perfectly with the stockfish and borlotti beans, proving that there can be a new combination of two unique ingredients like stockfish and rice. Here is their recipe for creamed stockfish, which by itself would make a trip to Da Vittorio’s worthwhile.
Creamed Norwegian Stockfish, a recipe by the Cerea brothers (3
Michelin stars)
2 lbs. 3 oz. Norwegian stockfish, soaked for 24-48 hours, 3 1/4 c. sunflower seed oil, Chili oil to taste, Garlic oil to taste, Salt and pepper to taste, 8.5 oz milk, 1 quart water, Bay leaves, juniper berries, peppercorns and garlic to taste
Instructions
Cut the Norwegian stockfish into pieces, place it in a saucepan and cover it with the water and milk. Add 1 bay leaf, a few juniper berries, some peppercorns and 1 clove garlic. Heat to a boil and cook for about 30 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow the fish to cool in the cooking liquid. Carefully remove the fish from the bones and blend the flesh in a food processor. Combine everything in a stand mixer or right in your food processor, adding the oil and part of the cooking liquid to get the desired texture, and season it to taste with the flavored oils, salt and pepper. It should be soft and fluffy.