"I wanted to create something that represented the city, but that was also a recognizable Italian dish for everyone." These are the words of Andrea Ribaldone who created “Spaghetto Milano” at a particularly beautiful moment for Milan: Expo 2015. This was when he brought the restaurant Identità Golose into an even larger space; for Ribaldone, it was a unique experience – in his hometown and in his brilliant career as a chef – representing the springboard that led to further success. Ribaldone received his first Michelin star the following year at Due Buoi in Alessandria and the chef has continued to develop a number of projects: He runs another restaurant in the Langhe – Osteria Arborina – boasting a Michelin star since 2017 and he works as a collaborator for many other endeavors across Italy like Borgo Egnazia with its six restaurants (one of which is Michelin-starred and entrusted to Domenico Schingaro), the emerging venue Lino in the center of Pavia, and the charming Garage Italia hotspot in Milan. Oh, and did we mention he remains the coordinator for the Identità Golose hub in the heart of his hometown?
A brilliant career
At present, Milan is going through a terrible moment –a moment that will end sooner or later. That's why we decided to bring this recipe back – it’s perfect for any time of year for chefs across the world! Ribaldone describes his dish as follows: "It is a spaghetti cooked in water with a little salt added to a blended risotto alla milanese for a cream of rice with saffron – unique for its softness. And there is also a gremolada with a contemporary touch. The important step is the preparation of the cream, which must be combined and beautifully smooth. Once the rice is blended, it is good to filter the mixture through a sieve, so as to eliminate any possible grain residue.” Italian pasta and the Milan of Andrea Ribaldone in one dish. "It's wonderful; Milan asks a lot, but it gives a lot and today, it deserves even more love.” He's right.
Ingredients (for 4 people):
1 lb spaghetti, 2 thick cut ossobuco, 1 oz tomato paste, 2 oz ossobuco ragù, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 celery rib, 1 bay leaf, 4 ½ oz Carnaroli rice, Saffron, 4 cups vegatable stock, 1 lemon, Butter, Grana Padano cheese (or Parmigiano), Parsley, Extra-virgin olive oil
Method:
For the ossobuco ragù:
First roast the veal, bay leaf, salt and extra-virgin olive oil in a vacuum bag for 10 hours at 160°F (72°C) to slow-cook the meat and create a ragù base you will use later. Once the meat is finished roasting, remove from the oven and finely chop the celery, carrot and onion for a little brunoise. Cut the ossobuco for the meat sauce and cook it with the chopped vegetables, tomato paste and ragù for 20 minutes.
For the risotto cream:
Make a classic Milanese risotto by toasting the rice and adding vegetable stock and saffron. Cook for 20 minutes and then stir in the Grana Padano cheese with the butter. Blend the rice for a smooth and creamy mixture. If necessary, add some broth and set the rest aside. (You’ll use it later to stir the spaghetti.)
For the gremolada:
Grate the lemon peel and mince the parsley. Mix in a container with extra-virgin olive oil and set aside.
To finish the dish:
Cook the spaghetti in an abundance of salted water, drain and quickly stir the noodles with the risotto cream, placing the meat suace on top. Dress with gremolada and serve.