Raised on a farm in Altopascio, a small village in the Italian province of Lucca, chef Claudio Ulivieri learned to love food from an early age. At just 14 years old he started working in kitchens throughout Italy, and soon enough, he made his way to Chicago, where he worked for 40 years with the Italian-focused Stefani Restaurant Group. In May, Ulivieri ventured out on his own with Lucca Osteria, a restaurant rooted in the Mediterranean seasonality and simplicity that Ulivieri has spent his career championing. Here, the chef talks with La Cucina Italiana about his fondness for the sea, his days on the family farm, and why a little olive oil and garlic go a long way.
What have you learned throughout your career as a chef?
It’s my passion. I’ve left this business three times because after a while you realize it’s a lot of work—but every time I return to it because it’s passion—it’s not a job. Through time and experience, it’s something, I’ve realized, I cannot do without. I’d rather be nowhere else than the kitchen.
Claudio Ulivieri of Lucca Osteria & Bar. Credit: Nick and Amy Ulivieri
What is the biggest inspiration behind Lucca Osteria?
There are a lot of dishes inspired by my mother's cooking, but also by restaurants throughout Italy. And then, of course, by my time in the States, and some of the flavors and techniques I’ve experienced here.
Can you tell us more about Altopascio, your hometown?
It’s a little town north of Florence about 20 minutes from the sea and an hour from the mountains. It’s also close to some of the best growths of porcini mushrooms, wine, and olives. It was a wonderful place to grow up—especially as someone who loves food.
What was it like to grow up on a farm?
The only thing my mother used to buy was steak, so everything else, from the chicken and rabbit to the onions and parsley, we grew on the farm. We’d wake up early in the morning to pick vegetables. My favorite dish was green beans that we picked in the morning, along with potatoes and zucchini. I was lucky to have access to the best of the best. My sister still makes wine today; she’s carrying our vineyard forward. Every September I return to help pick the grapes. It’s the best time to visit the sea, too.
What are some of the dishes on the menu now that reflect your upbringing?
My mother used to make hummus with chickpeas, fresh tomatoes, basil, mint, and red onions. It’s really simple but fantastic. Our bruschetta was something I had often as a child, with olive oil, garlic, and kale over toasted bread. And, of course, all of the seafood. My parents used to go to the sea for the freshest catch to cook back home.
Brodetto Di Pesce at Lucca Osteria & Bar. Credit: Amy and Nick Ulivieri
How do you modernize these dishes for your menu today?
Many of these dishes are peasant dishes, so in their original form, they are not served in any elegant fashion. We like to elevate the presentation in our plating styles and technique.
What dish will never come off of the menu?
The branzino al forno. I sell that dish more than any other. It’s served Mediterranean-style, baked in a wood-burning oven with capers, potatoes, and olives. It resembles what we try to offer at the restaurant, dishes that are very light, and ingredients that speak for themselves.
What’s the most important tip you would give an at-home chef looking to cook your style of food?
It’s all about the best ingredients you can find. Buy fresh, ripe tomatoes for sauce, use a great, quality olive oil for everything—it makes a difference. The dishes can be very, very simple. It always comes back to their source. And when you cook, it’s important to put some passion into it. A recipe isn’t just about numbered steps. You have to feel it; you have to envision a dish’s flavors and textures as you’re cooking it.
What three ingredients could you never do without?
Extra virgin olive oil is always number one—at the restaurant and at my house. Seafood, because I love seafood, in pasta and on its own. And when you have seafood, you have to have parsley. It’s a must because these two ingredients are virtually married to each other. It seems like a simple addition, but it completes the dish.
What are you most looking forward to when you return home this fall?
Visiting the sea. I’ll go early in the morning to walk on the beach, then have lunch at one of the restaurants on the shore. I can’t wait for the seafood.