Sardinian Cuisine Makes its Mark on San Francisco

On the verge of re-opening their restaurants at just half-capacity, while simultaneously balancing dozens of to-go orders, restaurateurs are pondering an important question: What about hospitality? Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan, the passionate duo behind La Ciccia — a Sardinian trattoria in San Francisco — have been asking themselves this question since the beginning of the pandemic.

If you’ve been to La Ciccia more than once, Degan probably greeted you on your second visit with a warm hug and friendly hello before escorting you to your table. After sitting down, it’s likely you smelled the aromas of bottarga or the baby octopus stew wafting from the kitchen, awakening your senses and prompting you to order both dishes immediately. “We are all about making people feel at home here,” says Conti, who opened the authentic seafood trattoria 14 years ago. Masks and gloves may be required now, but Conti explains, “When we think about La Ciccia, it is all about conviviality. Patrons come to relax and enjoy a conversation with us — or with the strangers at the table next to them. We always care about giving people an experience, so we’re not sure what to expect now.”

Conti and Degan have not only introduced San Franciscans to the regional cuisine of Sardinia, but also to the island itself. Several diners have traveled to Sardinia after eating at La Ciccia, which comes as no surprise once you’ve savored the restaurant’s food and wine. Sardinian classics — like fresh spaghetti, bottarga, fregola with seafood, maccarones de Busa, traditional Sardinian macaroni with sea urchin, tomato and grated tuna heart, and ricotta and saffron cake (paying homage to the flavors of the quintessential Sardinian dessert, called Pardula) — have become La Ciccia’s signature dishes. The restaurant’s wine list has been designed with care and heart, as Conti loves to play around with new bottles from small producers. These days, the authentic outpost is working to create to-go meals that can be enjoyed at home. They’ve also made it possible for people to purchase their specialty products, like homemade marinated olives and pane carasau, a thin-crust Sardinian bread.

When opening La Ciccia, one of Mark Zuckerberg’s favorite local spots, Conti and Degan were aware that San Franciscans wouldn’t know much about their cuisine. Still, Degan – originally from Padua but “Sardinian at heart” – decided they shouldn’t compromise on their concept: “It was a different time back then, and people were different. Sometimes they sent seafood dishes back because they couldn’t recognize unique flavors. But we’ve persisted.” Degan, who comes from a long career in the hospitality industry and once served as a Les Clefs d’Or Concierge, has tried to make their service an unforgettable piece of the dining experience. She explains, “Couples have gotten engaged at La Ciccia, and the restaurant is so small that people used to chit-chat between tables. We miss those special moments and will try to recreate the same ambience, but with all of the reopening restrictions on the horizon, it just seems very difficult to do.”