Chef David Nayfeld is a tornado. The way he moves, the way he talks, and his entire aura is an endless stream of energy that fills any room he enters—especially when you get him talking about food. But Nayfeld is also a craftsman, and there is nothing chaotic about his cuisine. We chatted with this foodie force of nature about his upbringing, his San Francisco taverna, Che Fico, and how he celebrates his Jewish heritage through his cooking.
How did you get into cooking, and how did you get to where you are today?
When I was 13, I got a job as a dish washer at this Greek-Italian restaurant, and the moment I walked into that kitchen, I was hooked. It’s visceral, loud, exciting, and people are just flying. And all of a sudden, I felt like I fit in somewhere; for the first time in my life, it just felt right. Even my ADD wasn’t an issue—I could focus in the kitchen unlike anywhere else.
Fast forward to cooking school at the Culinary Institute of America, then working at two- and three-star Michelin restaurants like Nobu in Tribeca, Robuchon in Las Vegas and Paris, and then my big break at Eleven Madison Park in New York. I then spent a year working through Europe at places like Mirazur in France, and for guys like Ferran and Albert Adrià at Tickets in Barcelona. When I finally came back to California, I knew I wanted to open a restaurant, but while I love fine dining, I wanted to spend my time cooking something that I wanted to eat, over just having to be artistically pleasing. And ultimately, that led to Che Fico.
Matt Brewer, Co-Owner, David Nayfeld, Executive Chef & Co-Owner, Angela Pinkerton, Executive Pastry Chef
What got you interested in Cucina Ebraica, or the historically Jewish cuisine of Rome?
I would often think about the question, “What is the cuisine of me?” And then I had this “a-ha” moment when I was on a plane to Rome and was brushing up on Roman history to learn more about the cuisine. My parents had always told me about the Jewish ghetto in Rome, but as a kid you don’t pay attention. As I started looking into it, I realized the Jewish cuisine in Rome, otherwise known as Cucina Ebraica, had played a major part in informing Roman culture and cuisine today, especially when it comes to trattoria cuisine, street food like suppli, and other kinds of fried items.
Chef David Nayfeld's supplì (ph. Krescent Carasso)
The Jewish diaspora came from everywhere, so there are also traces of Jewish cuisine from different eras that made their way to Rome. I found that to be my entry point, and I wanted to showcase the diversity of the diaspora and bring more attention to the things you know and love about Italian cuisine that were introduced to the culture by Jews traveling from place to place. It completely resonated with me because of my parents, who lived in Rome when they were fleeing religious persecution in Belarus. It all came full circle.
Che Fico, San Francisco (ph. by Douglas Friedman)
What makes Che Fico special, and how do you incorporate Cucina Ebraica into the menu?
Number one is the building—it feels iconic, and has a sign that’s been there for 65 years. What’s also special to me is that my mother started her own business in the same neighborhood 33 years ago. But what makes its food special is that we are relentless in our pursuit to showcase farmers and artisans, whether it’s olive oil producers or cheese makers or ranchers. We are also relentless in our pursuit to become artisans, as well, whether it’s in butchery or pasta making. And that’s before we even get to the pizza, which is truly unique. It’s specific to us as it reflects our upbringing in San Francisco, and is made in the style of sourdough bread, using natural leavening and local grains. As for Cucina Ebraica, we put Jewish stars next to anything on the menu that is inspired by ingredients that were brought to Italy via the Jewish diaspora, and next to direct dishes that were or are popular in the culture, as well.
Che Fico Restaurant - 838, Divisadero St, San Francisco CA