A sense of comfort is immediately felt stepping into Pasta al Forno, the new outpost of Emanuele Bugiani in the West Village. You are welcomed with a cup of vegetable broth served in a tea cup, and rustic long grissini are set on the marble tables of the twelve seats cozy space. All is in anticipation of digging into a slice of one of the baked pasta dishes prepared daily by Bugiani’s team.
Lasagna, the first item on the menu, is prepared according to the authentic Bolognese tradition, with a spinach homemade pasta with meat sauce, béchamel, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Other Italian regional delicacies follow, such as crespelle alla fiorentina, crepes-like pasta filled with ricotta and spinach in a béchamel sauce, and a vegetarian timpano alla napoletana, baked ziti with tomato and basil sauce and mozzarella, in a shell of San Marzano tomatoes.
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The most elaborate and adventurous dish is the timballo, a traditional Sicilian baked anellini pasta with ragù, prosciutto, peas, smoked mozzarella, and hard boil eggs in a shell of prosciutto and fried thin eggplant. The impressive dish, like the timpano, is served upside down and with a dome-like shape, could be a nod to the masterpiece prepared by the brothers Primo and Secondo in Big Night, the iconic film with Tony Shalhoub and Stanley Tucci. It is no surprise that a small poster of the movie hangs on the wall by the kitchen.
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Like the two film characters, the passion and dedication for serving the perfect meal run in Emanuele’s blood, as he prides himself to belong to a long legacy of Italian restaurateurs. He successfully opened two locations of Fiaschetteria Pistoia restaurants in the East and West village serving Tuscan fare without compromising. “I don’t try to adapt the recipes to what is familiar in New York”, he explains, “I believe in being consistent with the authenticity of the cuisine, it pays off in the long run.”
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With Pasta al Forno, he pays tribute to a restaurant of the same name that was open in Florence from 1964 to 2000. While inspired by this first “only baked pasta” restaurant, the menu also includes baked vegetable delicacies such as tartufata di patate, truffled baked thin potato slices, and a classic eggplant parmigiana. It also features weekly specials such as cannelloni ricotta and spinach, conchiglioni alla norma, shell pasta with eggplants, or an artichoke lasagna to die for. While the restaurant awaits its liquor license, customers can bring their own wine.
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All the menu is available to take-out, including whole trays of baked pastas that are a perfect dish to entertain a crowd. They last up to two days in the fridge and can be heated in the oven at 300°F for fifteen minutes before serving. That’s a dish that is sure to impress.