For over three decades, Tony and Cathy Mantuano helped define and elevate Italian cuisine in the United States by helming Spiaggia, the legendary Chicago restaurant that’s earned Michelin stars, James Beard awards and dozens of “Best Of” titles. Now, the couple have brought their signature “luxury Italian” style to Nashville, where they have opened the Yolan restaurant at the new The Joseph, A Luxury Collection Hotel.
Yolan is geared towards celebrating refined versions of classic Italian dishes, and among the menu highlights is this Pappardelle with White Bolognese. “This dish has become a favorite of our Yolan guests, as well as our cooks, who call it ‘heaven sauce,’” says Tony Mantuano. Describing it as “one of the most flavorful and balanced meat sauces for pasta,” the chef explains that “this tomato-less version was popular in Italy in the late-18th century, and is known as ragu bolognese.” While today we mainly see Bolognese made with tomatoes, that is “considered a transformation of the original recipe,” he notes.
In terms of pairings, Cathy Mantuano reveals that this dish works well with both white and red options. For the former, she suggests something like the Pecorino ‘Ciprea’ Simone Capecci, Marche 2019, made with the ancient Pecorino grape (which got its name from being a favorite snack of sheepherders, and their sheep). Simple yet elegant, with delicate herbal notes and crisp apple and pear flavors, this wine’s “addictive lusciousness on the palate pairs well with this pasta,” she says.
For a red wine, she says to try the Etna Rosso ‘Pistus’ I Custodi, Sicilia 2017, which is made predominately from Nerello Mascalese, one of Italy’s most exciting red grapes. “This Etna Rosso—grown on an active volcano—has pleasant sour cherry fruit and notes of herbs and tobacco,” she says, adding that the “relaxed tannins and hints of minerality reminds some of Pinot Noir.” Versatile and easy to drink, the wine “pairs remarkably with subtle and rich dishes” like this delicious white Bolognese.
(ph credit Jim Kruger)
Pappardelle with White Bolognese by Chef Tony Mantuano
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 lb. ground veal
½ lb. ground pork
¼ lb. cured meat scraps, such as prosciutto, salami, or soppresata, chopped
3 Calabrian chilis (rinsed and dried off if in oil), coarsely chopped
½ sweet onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ½ cups dry Italian white wine
1 ½ cups veal or chicken stock (preferably low sodium)
1 cup whole milk
¼ lb. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese rinds
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon peppercorns
1 lb. pappardelle pasta
2 tablespoons butter, preferably unsalted
¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Method:
Heat a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium high heat. Add the extra virgin olive oil. After 1 minute, add all the meat and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, breaking up the meat. Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook for 3 minutes. Add the Calabrian chilis. Continue to cook and brown well, for about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Add the white wine and deglaze the pan, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the stock, and the milk. When it comes to a simmer, lower the heat to medium. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds and stir to combine.
Meanwhile, with some cheese cloth, make a sachet with the thyme sprigs, bay leaf and peppercorns. Add it to the sauce.
Continue to cook the sauce, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the sauce is reduced by a quarter. Taste and season with salt and pepper, if needed.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta to the water, stir, and cook until al dente, about 3 minutes less than what the box advises. Retain ½ cup of the cooking water and set aside. Drain the pasta.
Add the pasta to the sauce, then add the butter, and the pasta water. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring gently to combine.
Transfer the pasta to a large, warm platter. Top with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Serve immediately.