Diego Rossi was recently awarded the title of Best Chef in 2020 by the Identità Golose Guide and today, he is one of the most famous and appreciated chefs on the Italian scene. His restaurant, Trattoria Trippa in Milan, has also become internationally known. His cuisine is not just traditional; it’s a contemporary and creative version of today's trattoria cuisine – made by the hand of an expert chef with modern techniques and forgotten ingredients.
The fifth dimension of Rossi’s culinary concept is the chef’s love for only the best raw (and exotic) meats like tripe, liver, and kidney that are currently on the menu. In fact, these dishes are among some of the most-ordered items on the menu – requested even by diners who usually don’t want anything to do with that kind of thing.
This recipe is a ragù made of chicken and beef offal, inspired by Italian cibo povero from the past. It’s a genuine and concrete dish, just as exciting today as it once was – with its extreme relevance for a generation of chefs who aim to reduce waste by using the less ‘noble’ parts of the animal. Originally a childhood memory, Rossi remembers the smell of his grandmother's meat ragù from the kitchen as he played in the courtyard, chasing chickens in the countryside of San Giovanni Lupatoto (VR). For Rossi, chicken ragù created a memory of taste that imprinted itself forever in his heart – where forgotten flavors take you on a trip back in time. "This preparation is ideal for dressing fresh pasta; imagine them with a homemade tagliatella. But it is fabulous as a filling for ravioli or lasagne. For a simpler version, use it to garnish bread croutons or polenta," explains Diego.
Chicken Giblets | Bovine Heart | Tomatoes
A meat ragù made from beef offal and a few simple ingredients (those that were available in rural Italy at the time): from the chicken, with all its parts used, to the smaller cuts of meat that are less valuable but feature extraordinary flavor. The chicken livers and durelli, with the addition of a bovine heart, are cooked slowly like a meat sauce – together with tomato sauce and aromatic herbs selected by Diego Rossi to balance the strong flavor of the offal.
Don't call it a ready sauce!
Il Cortile has its own story to tell – a story intertwined with tradition, regional products and collective memories – and this chicken ragù recipe is no different. It not only stands the test of time, but it can also be found all over the world far from its humble origins. Il Cortile is, in fact, one of the many dishes of “Bonverre” – a collection of recipes created exclusively by culinary interpreters of the territory that you can purchase in precious little glass jars (do not call them sauce!). To this day, Bonverre uses the traditional method of cooking the ragù in jars to preserve flavor for a longer time in the best way possible – without the addition of preservatives or artificial additives. In addition to guaranteeing a minimum shelf-life of two years, the glass jar represents a more sustainable and eco-conscious option. You can reuse the jar after consumption or recycle it! Ready to heat up or to make at home with Diego Rossi's recipe below.
Chef Diego Rossi's Recipe
Serves 4
Ingredients
8 chicken durelli (a part of the stomach)
8 chicken livers
4 oz bovine heart
½ carrot
½ rib celery
1 large onion
Garlic
7 oz tomato purée
1 sprig chopped rosemary
2-3 sage leaves
2 bay leaves
White wine
Extra-virgin olive oil
Parmigiano Reggiano
Pepper
Salt
Method
Begin preparing the meat ragù by removing the inner skin of the chicken durelli and wash them well.
Boil them in water flavored with a pinch of salt and a bay leaf for about an hour.
Once cooked, drain them and set aside.
In the meantime, chop the vegetables, garlic and herbs. Sauté them with oil in a saucepan.
Add the diced chicken durelli, douse with white wine and let it reduce.
Pour in the tomato purée, add salt and cook for another 20 minutes.
Add the diced bovine heart and cook for 10 minutes.
Then add the diced livers to the meat ragù and cook for another five minutes.
Add salt and complete with a sprinkling of pepper and Parmigiano Reggiano.