When we think of bread, legumes are likely not the first (or second) things that come to mind. Thanks to Italian cuisine, there is a whole world of “carbohydrate cugini” that contain no wheat, yet provide bread-like satisfaction. Chickpeas, or ceci, are an ancient legume that can be found in dishes in pretty much every corner of Italy. Loaded with protein, fiber, and complex carbohydrates, they pack a serious nutritional punch and are inherently gluten-free, dairy-free and vegan. Their neutral yet nutty flavor makes them a great foundation for salads and pasta dishes, but they shine even brighter when they are the stars of the show. Enter farinata, cecina, and panelle.
Dating back to when Roman soldiers would roast chickpea flour on their shields, Italians have been sustaining on these versions of chickpea flatbread, crepes, and fritters for centuries. A simple combination of chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt is baked, cooked atop a stove or deep-fried, yielding a delicious and economical street food, meant to be enjoyed on the go. These rustic snacks have made their way to NYC, where chefs are serving them up with their own twists on traditional.
Farinata - Vic’s
Farinata is a thin, unleavened chickpea flatbread that can be found all over the streets of Liguria, typically prepared on a large round griddle, sliced and wrapped in paper. Chef Hillary Sterling’s version at Vic’s in Noho is anything but flat. She ferments chickpea flour for 3 hours, refrigerates it, and then pours it into a well oiled, blazing hot six-inch pan. That reaction causes the batter to rise, akin to a pizza, which is then baked off in the oven until it’s gloriously golden. Crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside, she takes it one step further by elegantly finishing the farinata with a host of seasonal toppings and herbs, like crescenza, mushrooms, rosemary, and lemon. Available for lunch and at dinner by request, it’s a meal in itself for those seeking a gluten-free and vegetarian bread or pizza alternative.
Farinata (ph Stephanie Rizzolo)
Cecina - Santina
Cecina is Tuscany’s answer, with the physiology of a crepe. Santina, a coastal Italian restaurant in Meatpacking, has an entire section of the menu dedication to their spin on the dish. A large pancake, intended for sharing, is served with a choice of toppings like spicy tuna tartare, avocado trapanese, shrimp and prosciutto. It’s essentially the chic Italian taco you never knew you needed.
Cecina (ph Major Food Group)
Panelle - Norma’s Gastronomica Siciliana
The most indulgent of all, panelle are Sicilian chickpea fritters. Fried until crispy and finished with a heavy hand of course salt, Norma’s Gastronomica Siciliana is adding major flavor to Murray Hill by serving them up piping hot with a non-traditional side of aioli. A blend of garlic, anchovies, and lemon yields an unexpected brightness that compliments the crispy saltiness of the panelle.
Panelle (ph Stephanie Rizzolo)