When it comes to her home pantry, Missy Robbins, renowned Chef and Owner of Brooklyn’s beloved Lilia and Misi, stocks her shelves like her restaurants – with basics to satisfy any desired taste. “I’m driven by cravings and ingredient inspiration – I’m just not a meal planner,” admits the James Beard award winner in her cookbook, “Breakfast, Lunch Dinner….Life” written after she stepped away from her high profile job running and acquiring Michelin stars in the New York kitchens of A Voce Madison and A Voce Columbus. (Both are now permanently closed). She recently launched a fresh pasta and an Italian grocery service, MISIPASTA.
One of Robbins must-have home cooking essentials: Aceto Balsamico di Modena, or Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. With numerous balsamic vinegar options to choose from, deciphering which one is the best can be confusing. Robbins offers this shopping advice in her cookbook, “Balsamic is a place to splurge if you can.”
A few sprinkles of this “Black gold” goes a long way. One of Italy’s prized culinary gems, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena transforms an ordinary dish into something unforgettable. The thick, sweet liquid harks back to the Ancient Romans who used it for its healing powers and as a food sweetener. Modena, located in northern Italy in the Emilia-Romagna region, has the perfect climate for grape growing – hot, humid summers, and cold to mild winters – and since the 11th century, it’s where balsamic vinegar is produced. In 2009, the European Commission designated Balsamic Vinegar of Modena with Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) status.
Below, Chef Robbins shares her tips and tricks for cooking with the delectable condiment.
Why is Balsamic Vinegar of Modena considered a luxury item?
It can be very expensive so I think this gives the perception of it being luxury. I think of it as truly special because of the care and time that goes into it. The families that make it have been at it for years and pass it down from generation to generation.
There are a variety of brands selling Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. How do you know which ones are of good quality? How do you determine the age of the vinegar you are buying when the label only says “aged”?
The best thing to do is to look for a DOP mark or IGP mark, that guarantee the authenticity of the product. The “Aged” classification used for Balsamic Vinegar of Modena refers to a product aged for no less than 3 years. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena must be aged for no less than 12 years, or 25 years for the “Extraold” one. This difference is due to the distinctions traditionally present in the production method and in the ingredients used.
Nectarines, goat cheese, arugula, balsamic vinegar Modena by Missy Robbins (ph credit Evan Sung)
Can you explain the difference in taste and uses of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena aged less than three years and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena Aged 12 years and 25 years or more?
The Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP is matured for a minimum of 60 days, its freshness and acidity makes it perfect for salads and everyday use in general. If the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP is aged for more than 3 years it can boast the “Aged” classification and it results in an excellent condiment for cooked vegetables and meats. It’s easier to be found and as a great versatility.
The rarer Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is aged for a minimum of 12 years, or 25 years for the Extra-old one: a few drops can add a unique traste to many preparations.
What combination of ingredients do you like mixing with Balsamic Vinegar of Modena when making salad dressing? How much do you recommend using?
When using Balsamic Vinegar of Modena you want it to be the star, especially if you are using something of longer age and expensive. A few drops go a very long way. Keep it simple with great olive oil and sea salt.
Can you use Balsamic Vinegar of Modena when braising meat?
I would not use aged Balsamic Vinegar of Modena to braise. I would use a variety on the younger side and finish with a high-quality aged Balsamic Vinegar of Modena instead.
What cheeses do you suggest pairing with Balsamic Vinegar of Modena for aperitivo?
Only one answer: Parmigiano Reggiano.
How do you use Balsamic Vinegar of Modena as a dessert ingredient? What are some of your favorite desserts using this vinegar?
I love it with berries or figs. Simply drizzled over with a touch of black pepper.
Any additional suggestions for how to use this ingredient?
Again, keep it simple - drizzle over meats or vegetables.
Where is the best place to store Balsamic Vinegar of Modena to maintain its flavor?
Dark, cool pantry.
What is the most creative dish you’ve made with it?
Roasted radicchio with bone marrow and balsamic.
Missy Robbins (ph credit Evan Sung)
Lilia is open for outdoor dining. Misi is still closed due to Covid-19. MISIPASTA, Missy Robbins’ new line of pasta kits and Italian specialties, is available at mpnewyork.com.