As a native of America’s Dairyland hailing from Beloit, Wisconsin, Chef Michael White is a certifiable cheesehead. Yet this James Beard awarding-winning, Michelin-starred Chef doesn’t specialize in dishes featuring cheese from his home state. The co-owner of the Altamarea Group, with popular Italian eateries around New York City, including Marea, Ai Fiori, and Osteria Morini, began his career in Chicago at Spiaggia and then spent seven years studying at the renowned San Domenico in Imola. His mastery of Italian cooking is known worldwide with restaurants, also in Dubai, Istanbul, and coming soon to Saudi Arabia.
Although White uses local ingredients in his kitchens, one exception is Parmigiano Reggiano, which has more prominence on his menu than just cheese sprinkled on top of pasta. While cheaper imitations exist, authentic Parmigiano Reggiano has D.O.P. (Protected Designation of Origin - PDO) status by the European Union. That means it must be crafted by hand like it was made 1,000 years ago in the region of Italy where it originated, including the provinces of Parma and Reggio, using three natural ingredients: milk, salt, and rennet (an enzyme from a calf intestine).
White creatively incorporates this favorite Italian staple into a variety of dishes daily, starting with aperitivo through the dessert course. Below, he discusses the versatility of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Why is Parmigiano Reggiano one of the “top five most important ingredients” in your kitchen?
It’s a staple of Italian cuisine. It has so many applications.
How do you use this ingredient in your cooking every day?
Shaved on salads, grated on pastas, as a coating for chicken, cut into chunks as a snack!
Can you explain the differences in taste and uses between Parmigiano Reggiano cheese that has aged 18 months, 24 months, and 36 months?
18 months has a more delicate flavor – great with salads, sandwiches and alike. 24 months has a bit more of the quintessential parmigiano flavor. You begin to see some of the grains in the cheese and a great addition grated over pasta or with an eggplant or chicken parm. 36 months is a more mature parmigiano, the flavors are more pronounced. Great as a meal finisher paired with aged balsamic or honey.
When should you add Parmigiano Reggiano to risotto, pesto, and certain pasta dishes?
Parm can be added to pasta fillings when mixing them but should be added to hot sauced pasta dishes at the end.
Are there any pasta dishes you should not combine with Parmigiano Reggiano? For example, some believe sprinkling this cheese on top of pasta with fish is taboo.
This is true. Some believe there is a taboo. I believe there is always room for innovation, and you should do what makes your mouth happen.
Leftover rinds are a popular ingredient added to soup to enhance the flavor. Are there other ways to use the leftover rinds?
Of course! You can use that rind for simmering stocks, adds great flavor to tomato and meat sauces. For example, we put our rinds in our bolognese sauce while simmering at Marea. You can even make a parmesan stalk to use when cooking rice.
How do you use Parmigiano Reggiano as a dessert ingredient? What are some of your favorite desserts made with this cheese?
It is a great addition to a tart crust to offset the sweetness of a strawberry filling. Or, simply by itself with a very aged balsamic.
How do you suggest serving Parmigiano Reggiano as aperitivo fare? What does it combine with best?
You can serve simply by breaking off chunks of cheese and adding it to a battliardo board. At Osteria Morini, we use it to create a whipped parmesan spread.
If you are using Parmigiano Reggiano for grating, do you recommend buying it by the piece or pre-grated?
Always buy the piece. It is ALWAYS better when freshly grated.
Any tips for preserving this cheese?
By storing it in glass or plastic containers or wrapping it well in plastic film. Important to keep it away from foods in the fridge with a strong odor and the cheese can pick up these odors.
What is the weirdest dish you’ve ever made using Parmigiano Reggiano?
Bloody Mary garnish. Parm and tomatoes are a natural pairing. Additionally, the umami in the cheese really heights the supporting flavors in the Bloody Mary.