Not far from the city where Romeo and Juliet fell in love [Verona], the small commune of Isola della Scala produces some of Italy’s most prized varieties of rice. Unlike other parts of Italy, in this region, rice– not pasta– is the carbohydrate of choice.
In October, the rice-farming families, like the Melotti’s, dive into harvest, processing the pearly grains of Vialone Nano Veronese, a variety known to be so starchy that when cooked right creates the creamiest risotto.
The Melotti family has farmed rice in the natural springs of the area for more than thirty years. In the early 2000s, they began to open risotteria restaurants, bringing a rice-to-table experience greatly appreciated by gluten-free diners. Whether in Rome, New York City or Isola della Scala, every menu reflects the infinite versatility of risotto and the passion for traditional and genuine food of the family matriarch, Mamma Rosetta, who invented the recipes.
Down a quiet street in the East Village of New York City, Risotteria Melotti prepares over 15 variations of the dish with a thoughtful wine list that pairs perfectly with every order. Earlier this year, the Melotti’s renewed their lease, promising to serve (at least!) a decade more of risotto.
In cold weather, the funghi misti, a mixture of organic mushrooms and parsley, or the radicchio, gorgonzola e noci, with bitter chicory, strong cheese, and hazelnuts, are excellent options for gluten-free vegetarians. Those craving a heartier stewed meat broth, can try a base of herbed ragù from wild boar and duck. If none of these hit the spot, there’s always the option of indulging in black truffle or cacio e pepe. Best of all, every dish is dusted with Grana Padano cheese.
But the star on the menu is the Risotto all’Amarone, a staple dish of Verona, which tells the story of fall when the corvina grapes and rice are harvested. In this recipe given to us by the Melotti family, the rice is slowly cooked in Amarone della Valpolicella red wine, broth, and butter, giving it a deep magenta hue and rich flavor of dried cherries. The risotto is presented in a Grana Padano cheese cup, an excellent trick for serving the risotto as a starter, or primi, the traditional Italian way.
Enjoy!
Amarone Risotto by Risotteria Melotti
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 cup of Amarone della Valpolicella wine
1 ½ cup Vialone Nano Veronese Rice
5 cups of beef stock
2 tbs of butter
3 oz Grana Padano cheese, grated
Salt & Pepper to taste
3 parsley sprigs for decoration
Method:
Grana Padano Cheese Cups:
Grate 3 oz of Grana Padano cheese. Heat a small, nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Sprinkle 2 tbsp of the cheese into a 4-inch circle in the middle of the skillet. Cook until the circle starts to hold together as you lift it off the pan and the bottom starts to brown - about 1 minute. Using an offset spatula, lift the circle of cheese from the pan and flip to the other side. Cook for an additional 15 seconds. Then, transfer the cheese to an upside-down cup and press into the model to give the desired shape. Repeat for the other servings.
Risotto:
Bring wine and beef stock to a simmer in two separate pots, then turn down the temperature to low heat. Both should remain warm.
In a third pot, melt 1 tbsp of butter. Add the rice, stirring so that the rice is cooked, for 2 minutes. Add wine and continue to stir constantly for about 30 seconds, until the wine is almost completely absorbed.
Add a ladleful of stock at a time, letting the rice cook and absorb the liquid without stirring constantly. Once the stock is absorbed continue to add more until the rice is tender but firm to the bite. This process should take about 25 minutes.
Remove the risotto pot from heat and vigorously stir in remaining butter and the cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Place Grana Padano cheese cups on four plates and divide the risotto evenly between the four plates. Garnish with a sprig of parsley.