While lobster shacks dominate the food scene in Maine, nestled among them in Boothbay Harbor is Ports of Italy, where the star of the sea isn’t a local crustacean, but branzino, a prized fish of the Mediterranean. Restaurateur Sante Calandri sources all things local for his menu of pasta, meats, and vegetables except for importing the branzino from Italy, his native country.
Calandri arrived in Maine after spending 23 years working at New York City hot spot BiCE Ristorante which shuttered in 2014. “I always wanted to open a restaurant. Maine gave me the opportunity with very little money.” He purchased Ports of Italy in 2010 and remade it into Maine’s Top Italian Restaurant of 2019, a distinction received from Taste of Home. He recently expanded his Italian eateries, opening a Ports of Italy outpost September 2nd in Rockport and Ports Pizzeria last fall.
Chef Alessandro D’Alessi (left) and Restaurateur Sante Calandri (right)
All pasta and ravioli on the menu are homemade using just water and semolina. “The pasta is very light, “says Calandri. So is the branzino, prepared with minimal ingredients like lemon and extra virgin olive oil. This delicate, flaky, silver-skinned fish packed with protein and immune-boosting nutrients like Vitamin D is a standout without embellishment.
Ports of Italy Chef Alessandro D’Alessi shares how-to instructions for cooking branzino.
What are the qualities you should look for when buying branzino? How can you tell if it’s fresh? How should it smell?
The flesh of the fish should bounce back when touched. The eye has to be shiny and clear. The smell of a fresh branzino is the same as the sea.
How many pounds of branzino do you recommend to feed four people?
There are two sizes available for branzino: 400 to 600 grams and 600 to 800 grams. 400 to 600 grams is a good size for one person. 600 to 800 grams (one fish) is a normal size for two people.
*400 grams = .88 lbs. | 600 grams = 1.3 lbs. | 800 grams = 1.8 lbs.
Why is branzino typically cooked as a whole fish?
Branzino is usually cooked whole to preserve the delicacy of the flesh. Serve with just extra virgin olive oil and lemon.
For home cooks not as experienced deboning and cleaning a whole fish, is there a specific way to order branzino from a fishmonger so that those tasks will be taken care of by the “expert”?
Most fish stores offer to filet the fish. Ask for the bone so you can make a nice fish stock for soup or sauce or risotto.
What are your favorite ingredients to use when seasoning branzino?
My favorite ingredients for branzino are extra virgin olive oil, rosemary, and lemon.
What is the best way to cook a whole branzino? What type of pan/skillet you should use, how high should the temperature be while cooking, how long you should cook the fish?
The best way to cook branzino is in a cast-iron skillet bringing the heat to medium-high. Sear the skin on both sides then put in the oven at 375 degrees for 7 to 10 minutes depending on the size.
If you prefer a branzino filet instead of the whole fish, what is the best way to cook this style?
For branzino filet, the grill is my favorite, but a non-stick skillet works as well.
How do you prevent overcooking the fish so that it doesn’t get too dry?
The secret to keeping the branzino moist is to keep the skin on it. Cook the filet 90% on the skin side to avoid drying the flesh.
Suggestions for side dishes to serve with branzino for a complete Italian meal?
In summer time, a fennel salad with orange and olive is refreshing. For colder days, farrotto with vegetable and lemon zest.
Since you live in Maine, where lobster is the favorite seafood, what are a few tips you’ve picked up when cooking lobster?
To steam a lobster, you need rolling boiling water at all times. After you place the lobster in the pot head first, immediately cover the pot and boil for 7 minutes per pound.
Ports of Italy Branzino Recipe by Chef Alessandro D’Alessi
Ingredients:
Whole branzino descale clean
Salt
Pepper
Lemon
Extra virgin olive oil
Rosemary
Garlic cloves
Method:
Heat oven to 375 degrees.
Season the fish with salt and pepper.
Insert in the cavity slices of lemon, garlic cloves, and rosemary to taste.
Drizzle with the oil.
Using a cast-iron skillet, heat at medium-high, sear the skin on both sides.
Roast in the oven for 7 to 10 minutes depending on the size of the fish.