In the nineties, they would have called it a "disordered fish soup" because the ingredients are cooked separately, to be assembled in the dish. But not for aesthetic reasons; here, it’s done so the fish maintains the perfect taste and texture and to ensure that the bread does not crumble or fall apart. Italian tradition is all on the plate, but having a trattoria doesn't necessarily mean being a ‘pressapochisti’ (an Italian term signifying a certain carelessness for ingredients). In Italy, we think it’s necessary to an extent, sure – that homemade is synonymous with tradition and that anything served with a ladle is obviously going to taste better. The Panella brothers, however, both in Rome and New York, have shown us that the opposite can also be true.
Their restaurant, Antica Pesa, and is one of the most historic restaurants in the Italian capital. Since 1922 in the heart of Trastevere, this venue has been run by the Panella family, who have transformed it from a neighbourhood osteria to an established restaurant throughout the city. The Panella family, now in its fourth generation, features Simone and Francesco in the kitchen – the brothers who brought Antica Pesa to New York. In 2012, they opened in Brooklyn and in 2019, they also opened Feroce – a concept restaurant open from morning to night in the Moxy NYC Chelsea Hotel.
In Rome and New York, the menu follows the great Roman tradition: trippa alla romana, spaghetti cacio e pepe, saltimbocca and the whole repertoire – with some classic dishes and some revisited in a contemporary key with presentation and combination. A great example? Their recipe for Italian fish soup with shrimp, calamari, cuttlefish and octopus – served with toasted bread and finished at the table with tomato and basil broth.
This would traditionally be prepared by cooking the fish all together in one pot, but to highlight the individual aromatic profile of each variety of fish, they are cooked individually. This allows each fish to retain its consistency and flavor.
The Recipe: Italian Fish Soup from Antica Pesa, NYC
Serves 4
Ingredients:
10 shrimp
1 bass
1 octopus
5 cuttlefish
1 tbsp anchovy drippings
2 lb San Marzano tomato
1 onion
Basil to taste
White wine
Slices of grilled bread
Method:
Prepare the broth by cooking the tomatoes, onion, basil and white wine, leaving them to simmer for at least half an hour. At the end, add the anchovy drippings.
Cook each fish individually in the broth, respecting the cooking time for each fish. By hand, add the pieces of fish to a separate pot and keep the broth separate.
To serve, place a slice of very crispy grilles bread at the base of the dish followed by the cooked pieces of fish on top of one another. Pour the broth over everything and enjoy!