Opening a restaurant during a pandemic is no easy feat, but if anyone could do it, it’s the duo of John Winterman and Christopher Cipollone. The pair of heavy-hitting New York hospitality veterans joined forces and in December of 2020 delivered Francie, a modern Mediterranean bistro housed in a historic limestone building (formerly a bank) on a prominent Williamsburg corner.
Due to the restrictions and inability to accommodate outdoor dining, they pivoted to take-out, but recently reopened for indoor dining, outfitted with a new HVAC system and air purifiers throughout the space. Thoughtfully designed with both classic and contemporary elements, there are notable personal touches at every turn, including a mural painted by Cipollone’s brother-in-law at the entrance that pays homage to Francie Nolan, the protagonist of Betty Smith’s “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn,” the restaurant’s namesake.
Francie co-owners (L-R) John Winterman and chef Christopher Cipollone
With the stage set, we sit down with New York native Chris Cipollone, whose past restaurant hits include Piora, Tenpenny, and most recently, San Francisco’s Cotogna, to learn more about how his Italian heritage and a lifelong career in hospitality influenced his culinary approach at Francie. Co-owner of Batard, Winterman also jumps in to round things out about this exciting new restaurant's diverse wine list. This interview has been condensed and edited. All answers are from Cipollone unless otherwise noted.
Tell us about your background. When did you begin cooking?
I grew up in the Hudson Valley, specifically in Westchester, New York, which I embrace in my cooking. Being the son of wine shop owners, I was exposed to the art of food, wine, and hospitality early on. I started cooking at age 14 and never looked back. I have never done any other type of job. I cooked all through high school then went to the Culinary Institute of America. From there I have cooked in many fine establishments, landing in NYC in 2006.
In addition to Italian, what other types of cuisine do you enjoy cooking?
I have been the chef of many different types of places, from steakhouses to hotels to Italian and French to Michelin-starred Korean/European restaurants. I have had the opportunity to travel all over the world through cooking and really enjoy bringing that to Francie.
What excited you about collaborating with John and this project in general?
I have always respected John as a colleague and the opportunity we hatched I feel was so right for many reasons. From what the idea is to the Brooklyn location to even how the pandemic is [affecting] NYC, I feel it is the type of place the city needs right now and for a long time.
How did this influence your approach and menu development at Francie?
Well, we wanted to evoke comfort, deliciousness, and just the right amount of sophistication to give people this experience. I wanted to create the restaurant I would like to go to twice a week.
Is there any region in Italy that influences your cuisine the most?
I do make it a point to hop all over with my cooking, mostly due to seasons here. I do enjoy the Lazio region as well as Campania, where my family is from.
What are some of your favorite Italian ingredients to work with?
Calabrian pepper, anything anchovy, and Parmigiano Reggiano, of course.
What is one ingredient that you feel is overused/overdone/we likely won’t see on your menu?Nothing is worth ever ruling out. Everything has its place.
How would you describe the menu at Francie?
It’s a fun, playful brasserie-style format with several categories (snack, shellfish, firsts, pasta, mains, cheese, and dessert) done with a European influence (Italian, French, Spanish, British). We went in that direction because we wanted guests to discover their own journey through a delicious dinner, eating as little or as much as they choose.
What are your favorite menu items?
The market salad is dear to me, as it has come with me as a signature dish, always changing, but with the same touch of Americana (powdered "creamy Italian" dressing). I also love anything we do with pasta, as I keep to traditions and regions but add flair with local ingredients. I do love to watch guests enjoy the duck too!
Market salad at Francie
Are the pastas made in-house?
Yes, every day, fresh.
Does the menu change seasonally?
Yes, we love to work even micro-seasonally, when things are at their best.
Are there any permanent menu items?
We are still a brand-new restaurant, but I never plan on taking off the market vegetable salad or the duck, as it is clearly a crowd favorite.
What does your wine list reflect?
John Winterman: We do not have a theme nor do we actively seek out wines that are biodynamic, organic, or natural. If they happen to be so, that is a bonus. We focus on classic styles from Italy, France, and the U.S. that work well with Chris's food. We like to present a wide range of options by the glass.
Anything noteworthy about the Italian wines in particular?
Winterman: We love Italian wines! Since Chris and I were both recently involved in restaurants that did not have Italian wines, it has been fun exploring them again. The wines are so varied; it may be impossible to narrow them down to a small list!