The undisputed capital of the best fish in Central Italy, Anzio has been awarded the “Blue Flag” (for the fifteenth consecutive time) and “Green Flag” for its child-friendly beaches. Here, the fishing tradition finds its roots in Ancient Rome when Pliny the Elder, a well-known observer of nature, wrote that the fish from this area of the Tyrrhenian Sea had no equal. As well as its port, beloved by Nero, who was born in Anzio: Protected by the rocky hill behind it, the port was practically unassailable. Its brick remains, still defying the waves.
Anzio’s "modern" port, called Innocentian, was constructed in the seventeenth century by Pope Innocent XII. This was the first port dedicated to sustainable fishing – setting limits on the quantity of fish that could be caught.
Mackerel, anchovies, mullet, sea hen, fragolino and octopus make up the core of the port’s local economy with the rare stop at a restaurant from those embarking on a trip to the island of Ponza. "Every morning at 7:30 AM, I stock up on ingredients like my grandfather Alceste did – a true fishing pioneer,” says Giuseppe Papa who – together with his mother Maria Elena, Uncle Igino and his cousin Alceste – carries on the family tradition in the historic local Alceste al Buon Gusto. "Among the historic fishing boats of Anzio is the Spina family’s boat – now in its fifth generation – with a specialization in shellfish fishing.”
For a taste of the Anzio tradition, Chef Maria Elena Regolanti has provided this recipe – an authentic version of the local custom – especially for readers of La Cucina Italiana: Mackerel Portodanzese-style served in a butter-anchovy sauce – to be enjoyed under a beach umbrella at Spiaggia Regina, run by Regolanti’s husband Vincenzo and daughter Carlotta.
Sgombro alla Portodanzese (Mackerel, Portodanzese-style)
Ingredients for 4 people:
3 lb clean macker1 US quart linseed oil
11 oz butter
7 oz Anzio anchovies in oil
7 oz type “00” flour
4 eggs
Salt to taste
Method:
Fillet the mackerel and cut it into large cubes.
Place between two sheets of baking parchment and flatten the fillets. Bread the fish in the flour followed by the egg. Then fry in boiling oil for 5 minutes. Drain and let dry. In a separate saucepan, melt the butter with the anchovies in oil. Place the mackerel on the serving dish and sprinkle with the butter and anchovy sauce.
Articy Antonia Matarrese