The evangelist of Italian pasta has returned, and for his second coming, Evan Funke has gone full Roman with an all al fresca joint in the heart of Hollywood. Funke is one of LA’s most celebrated chefs, known for his ode to pasta restaurant Felix Trattoria, in addition to his pasta bible American Sfoglino, and his many turns on TV, including the recent release of Shape of Pasta on the newly formed streaming service Quibi.
The new restaurant is appropriately named Fingers Crossed as its opening takes place in the middle of a pandemic and is nestled in between sceney bars, clubs, and restaurants in Hollywood. But during a time that American passports are worthless, and Italy is closed off to foreign travel, Funke brings a much-needed vicariousness with an all Roman eatery featuring undeniable classics. The crackling appetizers like fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers), polpette di manzo (meatballs), and supplì with fresh fior di latte (rice ball with cheese), are reminiscent of classic Roman haunts like l’Arcangelo and Sisini's Supplì. The freshly extruded tonnarelli and heart-stopping rigatoni alla carbonara come straight from the bowels of Da Felice a Testaccio and the al fresco dining at Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto. And the tonda-style pizzas with blistered crusts evoke visions of the non-descript La Pratolina in Rome’s Prati neighborhood.
Who needs a passport, anyway?
Evan Funke at his new restaurant Fingers Crossed - credit Josh Telles
And as an evangelist, Funke wants the world to join him on his pasta pilgrimage, so we asked him why he opened this restaurant now and to offer some tips and tricks for how to make some of his favorites and what ingredients to use at home.
Why this restaurant and why now?
First, I feel like it’s my responsibility. If I have the opportunity to open something and offer jobs in this difficult time to people I’ve worked with in the past who are out of work right now, I have to do it. But it’s also a decision I had to make only after I felt Felix was going to be okay. Through the great work of my team – we stabilized. Then we flipped this new restaurant in five weeks. And that’s only because these are people who I’ve worked with and mentored that we were able to do this.
For the home chef, what are some tricks to making your carbonara?
I think of it in four stages. First render the guanciale. Then, make a compound of egg and pecorino or a mix of parmigiana and pecorino. I like to use one yolk and one whole egg if I’m making it for two people. There’s about 15-20 grams of pecorino and 15-20 grams of parmigiana and I make a paste with the eggs. Next, I slowly render the fat from the guanciale. I like a chunkier bite to the guanciale, so I cut it thickly. I describe it to my cooks as “abbondante!” use an abundant, thick guanciale. Then allow it to cool off – this is the key. Halfway through the cooling – fire your pasta. Now another important part, is you can’t over-salt your pasta water. You have to season it like a soup instead of the ocean. Don’t make it too salty because the guanciale and the pecorino will already have enough salt. Then, by allowing the guanciale to cool off, you’re offsetting the scrambling effect of the eggs. At the very end, you can bring the temperature back up once everything is emulsified.
What are some tips for making your Cacio e Pepe?
We start in a dry pan with fresh cracked black pepper. I do 50 turns on my pepper grinder per person and then I do medium heat on the pepper to release the oils a bit. I cool it off a touch and then do a squirt of olive oil and then add water and let that simmer until the pasta goes into the water. I give myself permission to do these dishes in the way they’re doing them in Rome. So, if you look at Roscioli or Felice, they use a little olive oil, so I do as well. After that, I beat the hell out of pasta while adding pecorino a bit at a time.
Where do you tell people to get some of your products?
Casa de Case in San Francisco for amazing vinegars. Gustiamo in New York has a mind-blowing pomodoro. They also carry my favorite Castelvetrano flour. For cheeses, it’s Mitica.
Pizza at Fingers Crossed by Evan Funke - photo credit Josh Telles
I know you make all your own fresh pasta, but for people at home, is there anything you buy that you enjoy?
I might take a lot of shit for this, but at home I cook Barilla and I use their Collezione bronze cut pasta. I love Barilla. I love their factory. The history of the family is extraordinary. I use it because they’re excellent. Also, I eat more dried pasta at home than fresh pasta anywhere else besides my restaurants. Honestly, they’re just doing so many amazing things.
Fingers Crossed restaurant - photo credit: Josh Telles
Cover Photo: Cacio e Pepe at Fingers Crossed by Evan Funke - photo credit: Josh Telles