Symbolic of good prevailing over the evil serpent, eel is a popular Christmas Eve dish in Italy.
Chef Nazario Biscotti, who has made a job of cooking fish — eel in particular — at Le Antiche Sere, his restaurant overlooking Puglia's Lake of Lesina. Biscotti is convinced that the lake's eels are Italy's best, thanks to the salty particularities from the lake's links to the Adriatic Sea.
There are numerous eel recipes, though Biscotti's preparation of choice calls for filleting and grilling them. “In ancient times.” he explains, "they used to fry ells to preserve them, marinading them with vinegar, mint, and garlic. Locals took them to Germany, Belgium, America, or wherever they went to make their fortune."
In Lesina, eel and vegetable soup is enjoyed year-round. During winter, the eel is combined with potatoes, pumpkin, leaves, and crucifers, and is one of the ways to enjoy the slithery swimmer on Christmas Eve.
Eel soup recipe
Ingredients for 4
2 eels (around 2 lb. each)
2 lb. country chicory
1 onion
4 tomatoes
1 eggplant
1 zucchini
4 medium potatoes
4 pieces of bell pepper
1 small bunch of turnip tops (if still in season)
8 cubes red pumpkin (if still in season)
1 bunch wild celery
salt
chilli bell pepper
Note: sub turnip tops and broccoli for the eggplant, zucchini, and bell pepper during winter
Method
Gut and cut the eels into pieces of around 1¼″ and place them in a saucepan with about 1 qt. water, and salt, and bring to a boil. Skim the foam and add the other ingredients one at a time, depending on the cooking time. Beginner and intermediate cooks will want to remove the eels, then place them back in the soup just before the potatoes, which should be the last ingredient added. Close with a lid and let it cook for about 30-35 minutes. Serve hot accompanied by stale or toasted bread. The dish pairs extremely well with an excellent Apulian red wine.