Jonathan Benno is an American chef of the highest pedigree. He trained at the Culinary Institute of America and went on to be mentored by living legends (Thomas Keller, Tom Colicchio, Daniel Boulud, to name just a few) in some of the United States’ most celebrated kitchens (The French Laundry, Per Se, Gramercy Tavern, Daniel, Craft) before moving on to the Executive Chef position at New York City’s Lincoln Ristorante, in the middle of Lincoln Center. Despite a Michelin star (at Benno), and an array of other accolades for his culinary skills, Benno attributes his humble Italian roots as the foundation for his three-project venture within the Evelyn Hotel, which includes Leonelli Bakery, Leonelli Restaurant, and Benno. As he prepares to open an offshoot of Leoneilli Bakery in the Museum of Fine Arts Houston this April, Benno takes time to reflect on his Italian heritage and the dishes he finds most inspiring.
Eggplant parmigiana.
Eggplant Parmigiana
“This particular dish has been with me since I was the chef at Per Se, Lincoln Ristorante, and is now at Leonelli Bakery and Leonelli Restaurant. Of course, my grandmother used to make eggplant parm for me while I was growing up in Connecticut. In the summer, my grandmother made it with the eggplant that she grew in her garden and the memory of that will always be with me.”
Tortellini in Brodo.
Tortellini in Brodo
“One of my favorite comfort foods, hands down. I love this dish because of the skill set required to make the tortellini. I remember my first trip to the north of Italy and having true tortellini in brodo in Modena for the first time. The tortellini were so small, smaller than a pinky nail. I was amazed thinking about the time and the skill of making the tiny, tiny tortellini. Of course, soup is all about the broth, and in Italy the broth is made with hens or capon, so as a chef, I consider how to make the best broth I can. So this classic comfort dish inspires me in various ways.”
Ribollita. Credit: Emily Chan
Ribollita
“I hate wasting food. As most chefs know, food cost is very important. So, finding ways to utilize all products and creating another dish is key to running a successful business. Ribollita is a Tuscan bread soup with vegetables and is a perfect outlet for leftovers. The bread thickens the soup up to make it extra hearty and filling. I typically make ribollita with leftover bread, kale, carrots, and any other kind of vegetable that you might have in your refrigerator. I also love to add some pancetta or bacon for extra flavor and some protein. Maybe you have a Parmesan rind to throw in there.”
Trippa alla Romana.
Trippa alla Romana
“Tripe is a real ‘chef’s dish.’ For some reason all chefs love tripe. It’s probably because of the humble, primary ingredient that requires real skill to turn into something delicious. I’ve learned tricks from the great chefs I worked with over the years, so there’s this aspect of legacy and learning associated with tripe. I make mine with sofrito, white wine, garlic, tomato sauce, and crushed red pepper, and I finish with Pecorino Romano and chopped mint. I prefer to eat my tripe with a sunny side egg on it and a side of grilled bread. I have also breaded and fried a tripe cutlet and made it into a sandwich for a charity event that I did. All the chefs that participated in the event loved it; the guests, not that much.”
Ossobuco.
Ossobuco
“I love this particular dish because it is very old-school Italian that most Americans know and understand, yet it steers clear of being known as Italian-American food. Any chef who makes ossobuco has a clear understanding that it needs to be made with love, time, and care. The bone-in veal shank, and all the aromatics, braise for hours, which I love because the house smells amazing.”