La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi is a restaurant, but its name is the best definition of what today's ‘Milanese cuisine’ is all about: a mix of tradition, local ingredients and openness to the world. This venue was born in 2014 when one of the two chefs from Trattoria del Nuovo Macello, Marco Tronconi, moved to Via Piranesi with his own concept. Bringing the solid tradition from one of Milan's most historic restaurants – with a cosmopolitan accent – in tune with the dynamic reality of the Frigoriferi location. Quality of ingredients (using products recognized by Slow Food) and the chef’s rigorously seasonal menu are the two star elements setting Tronconi’s kitchen apart from the rest.
La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi – precisely because of its excellent price-quality ratio – is considered a ‘Bib Gourmand’ by the Michelin Guide: at restaurants with this title, the bill will never exceed €35. In fact, even with two dishes per person, the bill won’t be more than €28 – and the tasting menu comes out to only €33 (plus you get to make your own selection). The restaurant’s most traditional dish, ossobuco con riso croccante, is always on the menu – from October to April – and you’ll often find rustin negàa, nervetti or cassoeula featured, as well! But that's not all; with this menu, experimentation is encouraged (as you’ll see in the recipe below!). Who knew canederli and shrimp were great with ginger?!
The Recipe: Canederli in Ginger Broth with Shrimp and Vegetables
Ingredients (serves 4):
5 oz fresh ginger, 8 cups water, 12 crawfish, 2 carrots, 1 celery rib, 1 onion
For the canederli pasta:
9 oz bread, ½ cup water, 4 oz speck, ½ cup milk, ½ stick melted butter, 2 eggs
Method
Prepare the ginger broth by boiling 2 liters of water with celery, carrot, onion and fresh ginger. Let the broth simmer for about 2 hours.
Prepare the canederli pasta (with a consistency similar to dumplings) by mixing all the ingredients in a bowl except the eggs. Transfer to a mincer with a fine disc and blend together. Add the eggs and continue until mixture is smooth and homogenous. Let the mixture cool in the fridge for about an hour. Remove from refrigerator and portion dough into balls. Clean the shrimp by removing shells and any dark filaments. Cut the carrots and celery to taste.
Use half the broth for cooking the canederli and the veggies: blanch the vegetables and set them aside. Then simmer the canederli until they come to the surface and drain them. Cook the shrimp in the same cooking stock for 1 minute. Serve the canederli in shallow bowls with the remaining stock, adding the shrimp, vegetables and a drizzle of oil.