Decades after Californian farm-to-table dining took off and the Italian Slow Food movement shook up hospitality, Italian restaurants in California are charting a new path forward for food, dining, and cooking during the pandemic. From vegetable baskets sold in pizzerias to seasonal supper kits prepared by Michelin-starred chefs, many restaurants are shining a light on the farmers that support them while encouraging customers to do the same.
Thirty miles north of San Francisco, Annabelle Lenderink co-manages the oldest certified organic farm in California. On Star Route Farms, she raises 80 acres of salad ingredients, like wild arugula, Apulian carosello cucumber melons, and shelling beans.
Since the pandemic hit, she has been working with Italian restaurants to find a way to sell the produce that they don’t need. And since Italian cuisine is synonymous with fresh and seasonal, it made sense to go directly to their customers.
“We always sold to restaurants and farmers markets,” she said. “When the restaurants mostly disappeared, we thought we should do a CSA box. It totally saved us.”
During the week, Annabelle brings boxes of vegetables to A16 pizzeria and Dopo restaurants for customers to pick up. This arrangement is known as a “CSA,” or community-supported agriculture. Annabelle is one of many farmers now selling products to customers at a restaurant location. She says it’s more labor-intensive to assemble deliveries, but it’s been worth it.
photo: A16's Instagram
Here’s a list of a few Italian restaurants supporting farmers in San Francisco and Los Angeles areas:
San Francisco
Known for Campanian cuisine and wood-fired pizzas, A16, has produce boxes for pick-up on Tuesdays and Thursdays, featuring Star Route Farms and Dirty Girl Produce. Order directly from the farmers and get ready for tomatoes, carrots, cilantro, beets, and more!\
Cotogna restaurant sells luscious supper kits with demonstrations and recipes from its Michelin-starred chef and owner, Michael Tusk. His Spring Vegetable Risotto kits come with ingredients from Fresh Run Farm, in West Marin County. For five seasons, he and gardener Peter Martinelli have grown heirloom vegetables, Meyer lemons and fungi for the restaurant. All of Michael’s rustic dishes are “inspired by the Bay Area’s bounty,” and change daily. Place an order with their partner, Elda. (Why not try on one of their blood orange cocktails, too?)\
Piccino Café just reopened for lunch and dinner after a brief hiatus. While they were closed, they made sure customers could grab Sicilian artichokes, parsley root, snap peas and Genovese basil from the farm they’ve done business with for 14 years, Mariquita Farm. Order a box directly with the farm.
photo: Piccino Café's Instagram
Los Angeles
Brooklyn’s award-winning pizzeria, Roberta’s, in Culver City, partnered with Thao Family Farm in Fresno to offer an assortment of produce, like Swiss chard, broccolini and radishes from their 34 acres. Kong Family Farms is family-owned and going strong after two generations. Orders must be placed a day before pickup and paid via credit card. Reserve at CSALA@robertaspizza.com. (Get excited! Summer squash blossoms are ready to bloom.)\
Jon & Vinny’s sell pizza kits that go great with their fruit and produce bags the Coleman Family Farm and Yerba Buena. Place an order by email, orders@jonandvinnys.com, to get a delicious delivery of kale and dandelion greens.
photo: Jon and Vinny Delivery's Instagram