Massimo Bottura needs no introduction. The award-winning Modena chef is respected globally for his culinary prowess – especially among his peers. Bottura’s locale Osteria Francescana is where his legacy began, already having received the title of “Best Restaurant in the World” multiple times. No words needed for Gucci Osteria in Florence and Miami.
As it became evident that Italy’s Covid-19 fight would be a battle fought from home, the Bottura family mobilized. With most operations closed (except his global Refettorio soup kitchen network), Kitchen Quarantine (KQ) was born. Humble Instagram-live footage of the family’s dinner found itself a nightly cult following, with one episode recording almost one million views. A stellar award-winning chef in his home kitchen – a sure indicator that the world is different right now.
Bottura’s daughter Alexa, 23, films with commentary in both English and Italian. From camerawoman to presenter and director, she emerged the unlikely food world starlet of this pandemic. Born in New York and raised in Italy, her fondest memories include playing hide and seek after school under the tables at Osteria Francescana. An American University graduate in brand management and communications, Alexa interned with Gucci and worked with Maserati – both iconic Italian brands, far removed from the food world. She wasn’t entirely convinced she wanted a formal role in the family business, but then KQ happened. Could she be the future of the Bottura empire? I interviewed her to find out more.
How did KQ start?
It was very spontaneous. As the lockdown was announced in Modena, I was having a virtual aperitivo with friends and they began asking, ‘What’s your dad cooking? How is he doing?’ Because, working in hospitality, the announcement was obviously big news. Dad was making spaghetti with tomato sauce, so I turned the camera onto him and they all began interacting. And it hit me: During a lockdown, people won’t know what to do with themselves. The next morning, I suggested we do an Instagram Live. He had no idea what it was! [She laughs.] The first night, we made something easy – passatelli. We didn’t know what would come of it. We didn’t even have a name. And boom! So many responded positively, especially Italians. We started in English, but viewers kept asking for Italian too, so we began switching.
What have you enjoyed about KQ?
The biggest highlight? Seeing my dad in a different light. That might sound cheesy, but I grew up in the restaurant world – except for holidays, he didn’t make us many home-cooked meals. Seeing him create dishes from whatever was in the fridge has been 2020’s biggest surprise. I think he’s rediscovered the joy of cooking – like a simple pasta or Charlie’s favorite, tiramisù. Of course, he always had a passion for it. But at a certain level, you can take things for granted. Going back to basics is a pleasure for us all. Since the Refettorio’s launch, he’s spoken about food waste and how it’s important that changes start at home. Seeing that implemented in your own home, seeing him standing by what he says –that’s been impressive. And then, given their reputation for criticism, the response from our Italian audience has been the most positive thing I have taken from KQ. Dad jokingly says Italians are either gourmet chefs or soccer coaches, so their support and acceptance has been great.
Massimo Bottura (ph Alexa Bottura)
What has audience reception been like?
We had an amazing response! People are interested, and it makes me really proud. Up to 15,000 people join live, while hundreds of thousands view the episodes afterwards. The most popular have been the episodes where we are making béchamel sauce (which was viewed by over 700,000 people), preparing chocolate sauce and my dad filleting fish – people went crazy! Non-stop comments like: ‘Where did you get that knife?’ and ‘So cool!’
How much planning goes into it?
The spontaneity is 100% authentic. While the format is similar each evening, the recipe is not. At about 5 pm, dad starts thinking about that night’s live episode. Like a mixed candy bag – you don’t know what you’ll get. They’re only a little more structured now because we’ve gotten into the rhythm of things. My parents love how I say, ‘Hey everyone, and welcome to Kitchen Quarantine!’ In the morning, my dad makes fun of me and wakes me up with it!
Onion soup (ph Alexa Bottura)
What has lockdown with the family been like?
[Big sigh.] Oh, it was hard at the beginning! Especially for me – having lived away from home for 4 years. I’d visit over the holidays, but we’d never spend much time together. We’ve learned how to live with each other again, and we appreciate each other’s quirks. Sure, we get on each other’s nerves; we’re a normal family! I love torturing my brother! I go in, jump on his bed and he screams. Then Dad comes in. Then the dog. [Laughing nostalgically.] Then mum comes in, warning us that the neighbors will hear us! If Covid-19 has given us anything, as my dad says, it’s been the gift of time. Time to look back; to rediscover your passions; to think about what you love and who you love – and appreciate them, because they’re so often taken for granted.
What’s been the most important role of the Bottura brand during Covid-19?
Our Refettorio venues have remained open around the world, and we even hosted French artist JR on an episode of KQ. He has been one of our biggest supporters at our Paris location, where we are delivering around 5,000 meals daily to those in need.
[Lara Gilmore enters and says ‘hi’. She been listening and cheering silently for Alexa.]
Lara: In addition to Paris, London prepares 300 meals daily, and Rio is now a hub for food collection and redistribution. In Napoli, making 750 meals weekly has helped us get underprivileged culinary students back into the kitchen. And in Milan, because it is a larger space, we’re still serving meals.
Cotechino and lenticchie (ph Alexa Bottura)
Lara, how do you see restaurants reopening in the next few months?
It’s going to require a lot of creativity. We all have to find a way. We’re not worried about putting on masks; we have colorful ones made by a non-profit Nigerian women’s group here in Modena. We will also have to be more international and change the way Italians eat. We can’t all go to dinner at 8pm – or on Friday night at 9:30pm. The most important thing will be not losing the poetry – not losing the smile, the beauty or that sense of conviviality. Everyone’s talking about “sterilizing” restaurants and using plastic everywhere. That’s not us; I’d rather not reopen. It’s not a hospital. We want them to feel happy – not afraid.
Alexa, what’s next?
In the same way that KQ wasn’t planned, I definitely wasn’t planning to get involved in this world [of cuisine]. With such a well-known figure in your family, it’s intimidating to follow in their footsteps. I always knew I wanted to come back to Italy and work with Italian brands. As much as I love hospitality and grew up in it, I’ve always tried to avoid it somehow. To work with your parents, you have to prove yourself. I shied away initially. I wanted more experience to bring something different to the table. [Smiling, she says:] Quarantine and KQ has made me realize that it’s not so bad! Afterwards, we’ll have to decide what to do. We have so much material. We’ve floated ideas like a book, TV project. We’re not sure yet. I still have a lot to learn. We’ll see where it takes me. I’m really excited.
The Botturas: Charlie, Alexa, Massimo and Lara (ph Alexa Bottura)
Post-interview, I thought, "Like father like daughter. Like mother like daughter.” But then I realized she has a bright, promising character of her own. KQ lit a fire in this young woman. History will tell us that creativity was the beacon of this pandemic. Alexa Bottura played a role. For her, this is just the beginning.